adding larger wheels

[buck8021]

put up a pic of your plane with those on

[mikejbb]

Here's what they look like on my sc. In the air they are invisible. I'm not a looks person so I don't know if that's a good thing or bad thing.

However, both wheels broke one spoke at the axle. I hot glued the entire spoke area and all is well again. I'm not so sure they were desgined to hit as hard as I do sometimes in my landings.

I can do a closeup if you're still interested.

[swimmer]

"I just added dubro 2.75in wheels the other night. Instead of just using the 5-32 brass piece I bought the 5/32 and a 1/8inch piece of brass tubing. The 1/8inch just fits over the axle and it fits very tight on. Then the 5/32 piece goes over the 1/8inch piece on the axle and the wheel on over that. It makes for a very snug but freely moving wheel."

This is from an earlier post but try as I might I could not get the 1/8"tubing over the landing gear threads. I would be interested to know how it was done.

I replaced the stock wheels with 21/2" Dobro Diamond tread wheels and used liquid nails to glue the 5/32" tubing to the landing gear. Worked great and the wheels roll freely. Thanks to you all for your advice.

Swimmer

[swimmer]

Liquid Nails does not work to hold 5/32" tubing on landing gear axle. The tubing pulled off the axle. So, I used 5 minute epoxy and it does a good job of holding the tubing onto the axles. Finally, the wheel mod is complete and I can move on to assembling my SC.

[mikejbb]

I now officially do not recommend these wheels. I've had to re hot glue a spoke to a hub every time I fly. I know I don't land that smooth, but give me a break. It's the flex that goes on, it just breaks the hot glue bond and I use plenty. I suppose I could try epoxy, but then something else would probably break.
www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5210

So now I have to figure out which ones to buy. I need my wheels to be big for the very rough grass I ROG and land on. And now that grass is starting to get longer. That's where I thought my thin wheels would work best.

Any thoughts?

Mike

[spiderhole]

I upgraded to Dubro 2.5" Lightweight treaded wheels (250TL), and overall they work great. However, the white plastic cover flap tends to rub against the tire. Has anyone else had to trim the end of the flap a bit after adding bigger wheels?

[jmoore atcs]

I just removed them on mine.

[mikejbb]

I upgraded to Dubro 2.5" Lightweight foam and now they work much better than the thin ones I have a pix of above. I had to drill out the axle a little to get the nuts on, but otherwise they just slip on, no other mod for the little bit larger hub, not even wobbly, works great.

Mike

[baz]

I bought these 3" wheels, listed as "Ben Buckle Models Nylon hub low bounce wheels 3"" and their working fine, just need a length of elecrical wire sleeve to take up the slack in the hub
The original nuts go straight back on.....done job!



Thats the stock wheel by the side, quite a differnce! tailwheel next
I got them from ebay UK

Baz

[gws003]

The Dubro foam wheels work great on the SC ;D

[monboy10]

a much easer way to get the tires to fit is instead of using brass tubing you could use heat shrink and keep on putting heat shrink on untill the wheels fit right

[vjh]

I used all of the information on this post while preparing my new SC. I used 2 3/4" Hanger 9 mains and a 1 1/2" Dubro U-Lite tail wheel. On the mains I used the 5/32" brass tubing, which worked perfect. On the tail wheel, I counter drilled the axle hole deep enough to use the original nut. I place a little CA on the gear nuts to hold them in place. I have 22 landings on the SC now, and I am very happy with my landing gear set-up.

[retiredbri]

I spent a lot of time trying to get bigger wheels that would fit the Cub wire U/C so that I could use the original nuts. Invariably, the hub size was too wide so would need filing it down to fit.
I've seen the posts earlier and then thought - instead of making the hub thinner, why not make the axle longer? (It may not be original but I can't remember seeing it before).

All parts in UK JP PERKINS catalogue
www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk and obtained from www.modelbatteries.com


I used 70mm ROUNDED SPONGE WHEEL [5507043] and 12g BRASS TUBE [5522371] plus 12 SWG WHEEL COLLETS [5508072].
I also used the centres of the original cub servo arms as spacers.

Cut the brass tube to length and epoxy it and the spacer to the U/C shaft.






The new wheels rotate well (a bit oversize).



Fit the collets and secure with hex grub screw (hex key supplied with collets)



They can be easily removed with the hex key/grub screws supplied with the collets.





Finally, I increased the tailwheel size using the 25mm L/WEIGHT SCALE WHEEL (2.9g) [5507031].



regards

Retiredbri

[ginginho]

Nice job Bri,
I used very similar wheels (76mm) and sourced them from the same place.

A tip worth remembering if you've not thought about it is to make the wheels slightly "toe-out". This helps the tracking when rolling to centre (that word again Alex, Admiral!) whereas "toe-in" makes it want to turn tighter when starting to ground loop, ensuring that it will. If a plane has a trike wheel base, then the reverse is preferable.
An entertaining explanation of all this can be found at rcmf.co.uk/articles/toe-debate.html

[retiredbri]

Yes - fully agree.




It's difficult to show but the wheels are toed out.

In the past, when the U/C got bent backwards, I used to just turn it round. That made the toe out become toe in (and tight ground circles/loops).

Now I bend the U/C forward to help stop nose over. If I've lost the toe-out, I take the wheels off (the collets help here) and use a small steel tube over the brass axle to twist it to get toe-out again.

regards

retiredbri