|
|
Post by berserker on Feb 2, 2007 20:29:51 GMT 1
Greetings all... I have been flying the SC for a several months now. It was my first plane and I have recommended it to anyone who asks. Along with the my enthusiastic endorsement, I also offer them all the same advice.... Before you fly it, reglue your battery box into the fuselage! It makes a world of difference over the factory adhesive. In my case, when I started flying the cub my landings were a bit on the rough side (to put it kindly). Since the landing gear is connected directly to the battery box, each poor landing seemed to loosen the box a little more. After one particularly forceful landing, my battery box came completely out of the fuelage.  That is when I discovered gorilla glue. :-) Since I reglued it in, it is the strongest point. The landing gear itself will bend before the box budges a bit. Hope this helps somebody.  |
|
|
|
Post by SCC on Feb 2, 2007 22:31:34 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum berserker. Good tip. I received my SC today, and that will be on my "to do" list. |
|
|
|
Post by il2msturmovik on Feb 24, 2007 17:57:59 GMT 1
Mine wasn't glued in at all...
Is it supposed to be?
I completely dissambled it and saw no glue
|
|
|
|
Post by SCC on Feb 24, 2007 22:08:09 GMT 1
I did check mine after seeing berserkers post. I must admit mine had been glued and was solid.
Good job you found the problem at ground level.
|
|
itchycods
Flight lieutenant
Crashes without warning
Posts: 48
|
Post by itchycods on Apr 12, 2007 5:56:18 GMT 1
I've had a couple of "harder" landings but nothing severe IMHO, but after looking at my battery box, I noticed a vertical hairline crack on both sides of the fuselage at the front edge of the battery box opening. I guess it's time for the epoxy...
|
|
a2cpc
Flying officer
Posts: 2
|
Post by a2cpc on Apr 12, 2007 13:04:45 GMT 1
After several landings..mostly hard and short, I am holding my battery box on with glue and rubberbands!
|
|
|
|
Post by davemac2 on Apr 12, 2007 18:06:44 GMT 1
I have reglued my battery box with gorilla glue about 3X now. I admit I'm not a great pilot yet, so it does take a lot of stress and I'm constantly bending the gear forward again after almost every landing. Maybe the re-bending is adding to the stress and re-breaking the glue. I think different solution is maybe needed such as adding extra wire braces to the wire landing gear or something. Anybody done that?
dave mc
|
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Apr 12, 2007 23:10:04 GMT 1
Take the landing gear out before rebending it.
I reinforced the box when I was gluing it in based on these warnings (no damage yet). I took about a dozen small ~1/2 inch small carbon rod hairs, coated with gorilla glue, and pushed them in sideways into the fuse tabs that stick out. The tabs are pinched between the battery box on the inside and the frame holding the door on the outside. Once ripped out they would be much harder to fix so I hope this was good preventative work.
The front of the box holding the landing gear is right up against the fuse firewall. with the box out I glued a couple of 0.5mm x 10mm carbon carbon strips against the firewall. Now the twisting action of a poor landing is braced against a larger and fairly solid wall of carbon.
flydiver
|
|
|
|
Post by englishpilot on May 13, 2007 1:06:23 GMT 1
I have had two of the Supercubs and neither had evidence of glue to the battery compartment. I could not believe that the plastic prongs on the fourn corners of the compartment eould hold and so glued it in too for the landings are bound to have an effect.
ALso I ripped out the poor quality circuit board. The first was found to have gone rusty after about 6 weeks (it lived int he warm front bedroom and not the workship. The intermittent happenings of the engine occurred. I put htis to one side and acquired another cub from ebay and onthe second flight the engine could be heard to faulter albeit slight. THen the control tot he engine completely fail and I had to ladn at full speed. A perfect landing with full propeller much to the cheer of the locals who had gathered. Don't supposed I shall be able to do it again!
So what i have done witht he new cub is to buy a 480 GWS speed controller use a futaba receiver ppm and use two 3003 futaba servos. For the servos I glued in some thick but light wood forward and a little plywood at the rear of the servo. I can now fly this aircraft witht he futaba 6exa.
Went to the local park and it flew like a dream. The difference was amazing from the proprietry electrics. There was increased sense of feel at the controls and the response was just great. I am chuffed to bits to use a local phrase. A friend is just ripping out the cheap electrics from his. ALso it means one can fly anywhere having a few crystals to hand in case. All steel glue works well ont he foam and wood.
Re poor ocnnection at times re battery etc. CHeck the large plastica connector. I found that they were loose and at times one wire would be further back and thus the contact was not good cause=ing engine faultering.
Hope some of this helps
WHat i would like to know is what one can use on the foam wing tips just ruffled by blades of grass. Is there a compound that is light, white and likes foam that will stop it disintigrating fromt he little scuffs and avoinding chunks falling away eventually
STuart
|
|
|
|
Post by englishpilot on May 13, 2007 1:13:16 GMT 1
Apologies for all the typos I should have checked . Simply doing to many things at once. The cost of the conversion was £10 for the speed controller, £5 for second servo and £7 second hand receiver, plus a little glue. Not bad when a new board for the supercub retails at about £30 here albeit only $29 in the USA and at $2 per £, I think we are being ripped off again; so best to improvise. I have had two of the Supercubs and neither had evidence of glue to the battery compartment. I could not believe that the plastic prongs on the fourn corners of the compartment eould hold and so glued it in too for the landings are bound to have an effect. ALso I ripped out the poor quality circuit board. The first was found to have gone rusty after about 6 weeks (it lived int he warm front bedroom and not the workship. The intermittent happenings of the engine occurred. I put htis to one side and acquired another cub from ebay and onthe second flight the engine could be heard to faulter albeit slight. THen the control tot he engine completely fail and I had to ladn at full speed. A perfect landing with full propeller much to the cheer of the locals who had gathered. Don't supposed I shall be able to do it again! So what i have done witht he new cub is to buy a 480 GWS speed controller use a futaba receiver ppm and use two 3003 futaba servos. For the servos I glued in some thick but light wood forward and a little plywood at the rear of the servo. I can now fly this aircraft witht he futaba 6exa. Went to the local park and it flew like a dream. The difference was amazing from the proprietry electrics. There was increased sense of feel at the controls and the response was just great. I am chuffed to bits to use a local phrase. A friend is just ripping out the cheap electrics from his. ALso it means one can fly anywhere having a few crystals to hand in case. All steel glue works well ont he foam and wood. Re poor ocnnection at times re battery etc. CHeck the large plastica connector. I found that they were loose and at times one wire would be further back and thus the contact was not good cause=ing engine faultering. Hope some of this helps WHat i would like to know is what one can use on the foam wing tips just ruffled by blades of grass. Is there a compound that is light, white and likes foam that will stop it disintigrating fromt he little scuffs and avoinding chunks falling away eventually STuart |
|
|
|
Post by mrmugen on May 13, 2007 2:59:39 GMT 1
That is a great little speed control for the money too! I have a few of them and no troubles with them so far.
|
|
|
|
Post by thecreepa117 on Jul 17, 2007 0:27:57 GMT 1
I just removed my batt box and it seems like there was little if no adhesive used during production. I am thinking about using a little 7 min epoxy but will this cause major problems if I ever need to remove or replace the box again? Such as, having to rip a bunch of foam out of the fuse to get the og. batt box out? Thanks.
|
|
emmeff
Flying officer
Posts: 14
|
Post by emmeff on Jul 17, 2007 17:39:33 GMT 1
I reglued mine on the weeking using thick, foam-safe CA but it's come loose again after a couple of less than stellar landings. Is Gorillia glue going to make much of a difference? I think epoxy might be in order.
|
|
|
|
Post by berserker on Jul 17, 2007 17:57:42 GMT 1
Gorilla glue works great here because it will foam up and expand to fill any gaps. If you remove the wing and squeeze some in from the topside as well, it gives an even better connection because of all the extra surface area in contact with the glue.
Berserker out
|
|
|
|
Post by davemac2 on Jul 18, 2007 0:06:23 GMT 1
I have found that epoxy, ca or gorilla glue don't stick all that well to the plastic battery case. Maybe hot glue or a silicone caulk would work better. Not sure. The longest lasting solution for me has been to use a 1" wide piece of 3M extreme tape across the front of the battery box lip and up the sides of the fuse. It has not come loose for mor ethan 3 months like this.
dave mc
|
|
