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Post by stillbents on Sept 25, 2011 16:34:38 GMT 1
My 12th flight started off normally but as the plane started gaining altitude and distance I realized it was not responding. The plane nosed over qnd pointed straight downcwith absolutely no control, but (this is a good thing), no power. We paced off the distance and it was near 450 feet away. The prop, cowling, and one strut were destroyed. The plane hit on the left side (pilot side) and there was some minor crushing. The wing and fuselage are basically okay with motor mount inslection to come. Transmitter was a Spektrum DX6i.
Why did it go down with no power was driving me crazy until I looked at the transmitter and the antenna was straight. I grabbed my Champ, bent the antenna, and launched it while my wife walked back to the crash site. When it was over her head she signaled and I straightened the antenna, resulting in an immediate loss of control. I quickly rebent the antenna and in just a second or so, my control was back.
While not 100% conclusive in my book, it's awfully close. The manual on the DX6i says bent the antenna prior to flight as the signal comes from the side, not the tip. I was pointing the unbent antenna directly at the aircraft going away so..... I am still sceptical since we fly these things all over the envelope and don't lose signal.
As an aside, my other thought was a temporary battery disconnect. My batteries plug and unplug very easily, to the point a battery's weight will unplug it. I actually have to be concious about putting the velcro over the connector as a feel good measure.
The question for the forum: has this happened to anyone else? It seems to me insignificant, though it is noted in the manual for the DX6i. Dave
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Post by flydiver on Sept 25, 2011 16:54:52 GMT 1
Known problem for ALL TX. Weakest signal is out the tip. The other problem is RX antenna shadowing. One of the problems with 2.4 is the tiny antenna can be blocked by large impenetrable objects like the battery, motor, carbon. Both problems together create synergistic issues
What kind of weird connector do you have that is EASY to take apart? Almost everyone has the exact opposite problem. I would not rule out a power break.
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Post by stillbents on Sept 25, 2011 21:42:41 GMT 1
Flydiver - standard EC3 connector. I took a new battery out of the package and plugged it into the aircraft. It plugged in very easy and when I picked the plane up, the battery disconnected.
I've done no mods to the battery connections. When I first flew the plane, I used plastic bread ties between the wires to hold the connectors together. I thought that problem was solved when turning the connectors across the battery compartment. I'm guessing it might be good to return to that procedure! Dave
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Post by flydiver on Sept 26, 2011 2:48:07 GMT 1
You will find all kinds of folks moaning about how hard it is to take EC3 (and Deans) connectors apart. I suppose that the corollary is that there are certain combos of clone EC3 (does anyone actually buy REAL EC3?) would be sloppy loose. I would guess you have that. If you DO indeed have that, I can easily imagine them losing contact DURING the flight with vibration and flight forces. I'm not certain that merely holding together would necessarily solve the problem.
I have a conglomeration of various real Deans and clones. I've learned that some of the clones are indeed pretty awful. I've also had the experience of an apparently fine fitting connection going bad IN FLIGHT! Scary and very hard to sort out what exactly went wrong.
Easiest way to sort it out is connect everything, tie down the plane, throttle up a little bit just to get the prop spinning, then physically wriggle and mess with ALL the connections, especially the battery. You should NEVER get ANY drop-out at ALL----EVER! If you do, you have a problem that needs to be fixed. It will come and bite you sometime and the cost will be a crash.
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Post by stillbents on Sept 26, 2011 11:16:55 GMT 1
All I can say is the connectors are stock on the plane and Horizon (3)/Parkzone batteries (1). Should I consider buying a handful and resoldering? There doesn't seem to be any way to tighten the connectors I have now. Dave
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Post by renard80 on Sept 26, 2011 22:40:44 GMT 1
What kind of weird connector do you have that is EASY to take apart? Almost everyone has the exact opposite problem. Just to add my tiny contribution - for those who are not aware, if you're switching to Deans get the RIBBED sort. They are much easier to grip and pull apart. Saves a great deal of cursing!
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Post by flydiver on Sept 26, 2011 22:59:41 GMT 1
The RIBBED Deans...are not Deans, they are another clone. They do work though. You can make your own (sloppy looking) ribs with a soldering iron. If you can plug in the lipo, then pick it up by the connection, I think it should be OK. If that won't hold it I think I'd worry about it a bit. It wouldn't take much to dislodge it. The make part bulges out slightly and has a spring action to keep them snug normally. You could very gently squish the female part just a tiny bit. That would tighten it up if needed. IMPORTANT NOTE TO BULLET USERS: This includes EC3- The male part of bullets curved part is supposed to be able to spin. It's easy to get solder flux from overflow into the gap inside the spinning part. This can insulate the spring contact from the main barrel making an intermittent/lost connection. You KNOW the consequences of that during flight! If your barrel will not spin soak in alcohol to clean and work by hand to get it freed up. If it's all sloppy with solder....well, best practice up on that soldering technique.
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Post by flydiver on Sept 26, 2011 23:07:17 GMT 1
If the package doesn't SAY Deans, and cost about $3/pair....they are clones where ever you get them.
There are LOTS of clones. Some are pretty decent, some are really poor. Some of the combinations are miserable working together.
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Post by renard80 on Sept 26, 2011 23:21:32 GMT 1
You could very gently squish the female part just a tiny bit. That would tighten it up if needed. Thanks for that invaluable advice, fly. I know it's VERY juvenile of me, but I can't help smilng! ;D On a more serious note, some good tips here. Thanks.
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Post by flydiver on Sept 26, 2011 23:44:53 GMT 1
It is kind of, uh, suggestive?
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Post by stillbents on Sept 27, 2011 15:15:05 GMT 1
I'll squeeze them a little to see if that helps. The connectors "look" exactly like the ones advertised on the HZ website. I'll pick up a pair at my LHS and see if they're any better. If so, I'll replace all of them. A pain to be sure, but better than the alternative, which has already happened.
I'm pulling the firewall completely off as one side is loose. I'm using 3M Marine Adhesive and thinking it's better to redo the whole thing. Struts will be in Friday and I'll be ready to go again.
What lubricant (grease) is used in the gears of the SC?
Dave
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Post by renard80 on Sept 27, 2011 23:16:18 GMT 1
Stillbents, if you intend replacing your connectors I recommend scrapping the EC3 and going for Deans. Just my opinion, don't know what others think.
Make sure you attach the FEMALE connector to the BATTERY. Otherwise, you risk a short-circuit should anything metal accidentally bridge the (male) terminals.
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 28, 2011 23:49:31 GMT 1
IMHO EC3 plugs are the best. They are very easy to solder and you can test and adjust the tension of the connector to fit your needs. I developed a way to solder EC3 plugs that is very easy. I have never found another connector that works this easy!! Hear is a video that I made!!! How to solder EC3 or EC5 plugs: vimeo.com/28279550I also developed a way to adjust the tension. How to adjust the tension of EC3 or EC5 plugs. vimeo.com/28280408Ifly
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Post by flydiver on Sept 29, 2011 0:25:16 GMT 1
Your second vimeo is private.
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 29, 2011 3:48:44 GMT 1
Thanks Flydiver, Hmmmm, not sure what the problem is. I've tried to remover the privacy but it does not react. I'm In a hotel in Louisiana using my Ipad. Not sure but the Ipad may be the issue. I'll check it in the morning.
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