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Post by Dillzio on Jan 20, 2011 10:08:34 GMT 1
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Post by alaskabliss on Jan 20, 2011 21:30:27 GMT 1
You need to post a picture of these bad boys on your bird...
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Post by renard80 on Jan 20, 2011 23:23:05 GMT 1
Thanks for the info, Dill.
My SC has the stock wheels at present.
Almost invariably, I fly on a mown grass field. You say these HobbyKing wheels are harder than the stock ones. Would they be better than the stock ones for grass take off / landing?
Or should I simply stay with the stock ones?
I have no idea whether soft or hard wheels are best for grass.
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Post by Dillzio on Jan 21, 2011 2:51:29 GMT 1
softer wheels are better for rough landings, or landings on rough surfaces. What makes it good for landing on grass though is BIGGER wheels, these 75x20mm ones are WAY bigger than the stockies. These are the wheels I had on there, and the foam that they're made out of is rock hard. They would nose over in long grass almost as easily as the stockies. www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9833 These are the new ones as a comparison:  Here's a pic of these big bad boys on my bird   |
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Post by alaskabliss on Jan 21, 2011 18:05:02 GMT 1
They do look good... I like the size. I love my Trexlers because they are soft and give the plane suspension that you can see workng on landings and taxi. I have played with the pressures a bit and found they don't like minimal pressure when it's cold on ice, they like to lock up and slide. With them aired up fairly good they don't over bounce and seem to track well. I know they have some weight but it is soooo worth it.
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Post by mebillica on Jan 22, 2011 16:59:00 GMT 1
Nice find, thanks! HobbyKing also had a Turnigy 138mAh 1S 10C lipo for $.99 that I bought. I figured I could use that to run my night time lights. For 99 cents, why not?
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Post by toff on Jan 22, 2011 23:31:27 GMT 1
I'm on the same size as dillzio. Call me perverse, but they're not big enough! I'm now looking at 100mm, as the rugby field I usually fly at is ROUGH! Even with the 75mms, I still nose over, no matter how smooth the landing. Huge blokes running around in studded boots tends to mean the field(s) are a little uneven......
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Post by Dillzio on Jan 23, 2011 3:14:09 GMT 1
Nice find, thanks! HobbyKing also had a Turnigy 138mAh 1S 10C lipo for $.99 that I bought. I figured I could use that to run my night time lights. For 99 cents, why not? Just a quick caution on those batteries. I bought a 1s 250mah a while ago to power my camera with. It turns out that the keychain camera I have will drain the battery to below 3v, then charge it to over 4.2v. These small capacity batteries stand up to punishment even less well than normal lipos, mine is now ballooned and gets warm whenever I try and charge it. What sort of navlights are you using anyway? I haven't come across many that put out a decent amount of light at only 3-4v Regarding the 100mm wheels, they may cause significantly more drag, and finding them in only 20mm wide might be a bit difficult. It is possible to use wider wheels though if you drill the hub out a bit with a large drill bit. supercubclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=whls&action=display&thread=2603 |
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Post by renard80 on Jan 24, 2011 0:33:02 GMT 1
Thanks to Dill for responding to my post above.
My problem is similar to Toff's - my field is used extensively by amateur football players (what our colonial cousins call "soccer" . . . ), so if his big wheels aren't doing the job I may as well stick with the stocks (??)
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Post by mebillica on Jan 24, 2011 4:47:51 GMT 1
Nice find, thanks! HobbyKing also had a Turnigy 138mAh 1S 10C lipo for $.99 that I bought. I figured I could use that to run my night time lights. For 99 cents, why not? Just a quick caution on those batteries. I bought a 1s 250mah a while ago to power my camera with. It turns out that the keychain camera I have will drain the battery to below 3v, then charge it to over 4.2v. These small capacity batteries stand up to punishment even less well than normal lipos, mine is now ballooned and gets warm whenever I try and charge it. What sort of navlights are you using anyway? I haven't come across many that put out a decent amount of light at only 3-4v Good point. 3v probably won't work for what I was thinking. I guess I didn't think that one through. Oh-well, it was only a buck.  I am going to be using the XportZone lights. I don't think they sell them anymore. At least they aren't up on their web site anymore. There is a picture of them on their home page though. Backup plan is to use the 300mah hobbyzone lipo that came with my mini-cub. I think that will work nicely as I have tested it already. Or I may just hardwire some sort of switch in to run it off of whatever battery I am flying. That might be easiest actually. Just flip the switch for on, or off. |
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Post by alaskabliss on Jan 24, 2011 18:34:15 GMT 1
Thanks to Dill for responding to my post above. My problem is similar to Toff's - my field is used extensively by amateur football players (what our colonial cousins call "soccer" . . . ), so if his big wheels aren't doing the job I may as well stick with the stocks (??) Get the bigger wheels!!! You will not regret it. I bent my landing gears forward just a bit to help keep nose overs from happening. I also keep my elevators pulled back... The size does cause some drag but lets remember, we are flying a super cub, not a jet. It is supposed to fly slow, heavy and with some drag. My stock bird flys the 3 1/2" Trexlers as good as my brushless. |
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Post by renard80 on Jan 25, 2011 0:54:25 GMT 1
Many thanks for that advice, Alaska.
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Post by Dillzio on Jan 25, 2011 1:11:21 GMT 1
Renard, big wheels will help a lot for grass landings. The bigger the wheels are, the more likely they are to roll over the long grass rather than getting tripped up by it. Mebillica, Getting LEDs to run off your normal 3s lipo can be difficult, but is not impossible. I made up a flashing red beacon for my plane using LEDs I took out of a flashing bicycle light. It's certainly not impossible, but it's not all that easy either. The problem is that most LEDs run at about 2v (and use about 20ma), so to run them off a 12v battery you need to bleed off 9v, at 20ma, which is 0.2 watts. While LEDs can be wired in series so that all of them will only need about 20-30ma, it's often much more practical to wire them in parallel. so EACH LED will use 20ma. If you're running 6 LEDs that's over 1 watt of heat that you need to dissipate, so you'll either need to use one big heavy duty LED for the lot of them, or one little LED for each navlight. I've got some info here on the calculations you need to work out the resistance if you need it: supercubclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=tt&thread=2889&post=21839 |
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Post by mebillica on Jan 25, 2011 3:43:21 GMT 1
Thanks for the info!
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Post by stratoscub2010 on Feb 3, 2011 2:31:58 GMT 1
I use 3" wheels and a 1 1/2" tailwheel. They are both Dubro rubber wheels. They are awesome!!!!
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