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Post by john66 on Dec 3, 2010 22:33:01 GMT 1
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Post by flydiver on Dec 3, 2010 22:37:33 GMT 1
FMA is US based but they ship from Asia. Follow that link I sent. Not sure how the conversion and shipping works out but it may be possible. Since they started that model the price actually went down. I probably paid $75+shipping for mine 3 years ago.
I got the AC-6 to see what the fuss was about. It's an OK charger, just not as easy and safe as the FMA. I'm using it right now to recover a friend's dive light 10-cell battery pack. The lipo only FMA 4S won't do that. They do have a 4S multi-chemistry for a higher price. I've not used it. I have other chargers for NIXX.
I'm not absolutely nixing the AC-6 and clones. If you get it you WILL have to read the manual to use it so you may as well see if it makes any sense to you at all.
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 4, 2010 13:14:12 GMT 1
Been reading but its not going in,im not gr8 with amps volts mah Thats part the reason im still useing the sc lp charger and looks like i'll have it forever ;-) Just want to charge my 3 1000ma 25c 3s and one 2200ma 25c 3s not all at the same time that would just be greedy
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Post by ginginho on Dec 4, 2010 13:16:57 GMT 1
I'd agree that you'll have to read a bit but that's not necessarily a bad thing. There are inherent risks with Lipos that all users should be aware of although sadly the likes of HZ shipping them with models for newbies tends to mean a lot bypass this learning curve and suffer because of it whether it's knackered packs as often seen on here or something potentially more hazardous. The GT's are not idiot proof, but it's not really rocket science either. Certainly better than the HZ charger, not the best in the world, but do you need that? It's charge most of the common technologies (NiHm, Lipo, LiFe etc) in most of the common sizes used by new flyers. Fly says it's not as safe as the FMA which may well be the case, but you have to do something pretty stupid to fool it into doing something wrong. One other thought, what are you balance leads plug type? The GT's have JST-XH ports, if you have different you'll need to find a conversion board/cable or look at other brands.
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Post by ginginho on Dec 4, 2010 13:26:27 GMT 1
Been reading but its not going in,im not gr8 with amps volts mah Thats part the reason im still useing the sc lp charger and looks like i'll have it forever ;-) Just want to charge my 3 1000ma 25c 3s and one 2200ma 25c 3s not all at the same time that would just be greedy The C rate for charging packs can be pretty simple. 1C is equal to the capacity of the pack, therefore your 1000ma have a 1 C charge rate of 1amp, the 2200's have a 1C charge rate of 2.2amps. There are packs available now that are supposed to be capable of charging at up to 5C, however this may have a negative impact on their longevity. Knowledge seems to suggest that charging at a lower rate has less of an adverse effect with regards to this. I tend to charge my 2250's at 1.8 or 1.9amps, around 80% of the capacity which is a rule that's often suggested with electric power setups whether charging, ESC sizing, flying times and so on. If you do this with your packs you are not likely to kill them prematurely due to your charging regime. So 0.8a for the little ones, 1.8-2.0a for the 2200's will be fine. 40-50mins per pack.
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 4, 2010 17:31:26 GMT 1
i get you so a 2600 has a charge rate of 1c at 2.6amp but to be safe charge at 2.3amp 2.2? Think i understand thanks for takeing the time to explane Charge plug is just over 1cm wide thats all i can tell you
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Post by flydiver on Dec 4, 2010 21:45:27 GMT 1
i get you so a 2600 has a charge rate of 1c at 2.6amp but to be safe charge at 2.3amp 2.2? Think i understand thanks for takeing the time to explane Charge plug is just over 1cm wide thats all i can tell you The most common balance port is the JST-XH ports. This is the PZ, and the majority of the batteries from Hobby King. You would do well to take a look at this sheet and bookmark it for reference. www.rcaccessory.com/pdf/Battery%20Tap%20Configuration%20Guide.pdfSome of the more expensive batteries (Thunder Power, Hyperion, polyquest) have different taps.
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 5, 2010 14:40:10 GMT 1
Its the same as the hz lp charger plug! So am i understanding a 3000ma pack charges at 1c at 3amps but charge at 2.7amps?
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 5, 2010 14:49:12 GMT 1
Allso you said recovering a friends pack? One of my 1000 packs when charged seems to have half the power and time of the other two..does this mean i could "recover"this pack or have i defo killed it??? flight update useing 9x4.5 not as much power/speed as i had with the 3bladed and being that my gf wont let me have my 2200ma pack till xmas im still useing my old 1000ma packs i no i shouldnt use them but i can say there not as warm n puffed? Do u think i'll get more power/speed with the 2200ma pack and stick with this prop size or get a amp meter n check diffrent sizes! So next i need a cheep amp meter to check how much ampage im pulling,has any one heard of a bli esc any info its in blue shrink rap could do with finding out if its got a lvc and how to stick program it!"eh flydiver lvc im learing"
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Post by flydiver on Dec 5, 2010 16:59:03 GMT 1
If you over discharge a pack (go below 3v/cell) the PZ and many other chargers will reject it. If it is not too low the Cellpro will attempt to charge it and often can. That is 'recovery'. It does not mean the cell is all better. Often it is permanently damaged. Lipos that have been excessively used beyond their operating limits become permanently damaged. Sounds like yours is.
FWIW I started out in the NiMh era. Now everyone is all about lipo, lipo Power!, Whoo Hooo! A harsh reality is newbies will ruin their first half dozen lipos (or more) before they figure out how to take care of the things. The information is out there, and I've already posted the links. You gotta read it.
gringinho is giving you conservative information. There is no data at all that charging slower than 1C will help a pack. It won't hurt anything. The Cellpro can safely charge most packs at 2C and 3C and has been doing so for years. This is NOT recommended on other chargers.
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 5, 2010 20:38:45 GMT 1
Updated post bk ^ I really need to find out if that bli esc has a lvc n how to stick program it?
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Post by flydiver on Dec 6, 2010 1:44:10 GMT 1
bli esc has a lvc n how to stick program it? bli esc? What is that? New suggestion - don't fly to LVC----- ever. Hard on your lipos. Some ESC have an LVC set so low it is positively destructive (GWS, Electrifly, and others). I think 3v/cell is an absolute minimum, and 3.2-3.4v/cell is better. Consider LVC a fail safe. If your ESC does % of starting do the math. It probably is poor. You would like to have 20% (3.6-3.7v/cell) of your battery remaining at the end of the dive. That translates into about 10.7-11v on 3S. If you are seeing 10v AFTER flying you've pushed too far. If' you think 9v is OK you are misinformed and can start kissing your lipos and money goodbye.
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 6, 2010 15:04:22 GMT 1
Bli esc thats what it says on it??? Maybe i should chuck it in the bin n just get another one! Still need a volt/amp meter so i can test them
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Post by flydiver on Dec 6, 2010 18:27:53 GMT 1
Tried looking [bli esc...speed control] up. Found nothing. I hate that. I got a Tsunami ESC once. It worked but took me days to find out programming instructions. They were absolutely the worst written instructions I've ever seen. I know how to stick program an ESC and could not on this one. Burned me off from stick programming forever I think. Now, no program card or PC interface > no purchase. Crappy BEC > no purchase Lousy LVC > no purchase and warn everyone I can think of off. Read your specs and get to know what they mean. This is about as good as you can do for a wattmeter: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10080A voltmeter (digital volt meter = DMV) is a necessary tool for RC but will not help with motor output much unless you can figure out how to do this to an available DMV: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949923&page=1That's why I asked if you had Harbor Freight. I personally don't know enough to modify other brands. I could barely pull that mod off with instructions.
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Post by pauliepilot on Dec 12, 2010 16:28:20 GMT 1
Iv just been to the shop and bought a digital multimeter? Have no idea how to use it and even read ghe instructions 3times Dcv? dca?acv what the hell did i get sumthing useless or is that just me lol Confused.com pls help
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