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Post by bblalock on Sept 15, 2008 19:30:01 GMT 1
I have read about going lipo but just did it. My second plane is the PZ T-28. I ordered new batteries for it(2200 mah) and decided to put it's original in the SC(1800mah). So, I used my Dremel to cut a slot in the back of the batt box(did not have to remove) just big enough to slide the lipo in. Then I gouged out enough foam so the batt went in, but very tight. I bought a $3 connector with the fitting for the batt and the motor already installed. When I stuff the batt in I put the original motor connector below it so that helps to support the batt from the top of the box. I use the original Velcro straps to secure the batt. No glue, no soldering, nothing else moved! The lipo is .4 lighter and wayyyyy more power. I did not notice any flying difference except for all the power. I did not have to change any of the trim settings. At 40-50% throttle I can do much more than before(loops, inverted, etc.). It handles more wind too. Do not hand launch with full throttle. I was buying the new batts anyway so the only cost was the $3 and about 30-60 min. The SC is lots of fun but for this easy mod it really takes it to the next level. Try it!
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Post by flydiver on Sept 15, 2008 21:47:47 GMT 1
Dija prop down? If not, let us hear how it goes. fly
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Post by bblalock on Sept 16, 2008 17:22:37 GMT 1
So far I am carefully using the original prop. Maximum 80% of throttle with an occasional burst to 100%. 40-80% is all you need.
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Post by paulharris on Sept 17, 2008 21:32:12 GMT 1
Do not hand launch with full throttle. Would you care to expound on this a bit? I have mine converted and ready to go, but would like to hear more from you before I give it a toss! Paul
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Post by bblalock on Sept 18, 2008 18:56:48 GMT 1
I am afraid full power is too much. Try it if you want but it is a whole 'nother plane with the lipo. At 80% it really launches and if you are not properly trimmed, at 100%, you may not get another chance. Just my .02
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Post by paulharris on Sept 19, 2008 2:23:13 GMT 1
bblalock,
Thanks for the answer, and I got my own, as well. Had a chance to fly the SC on lipo for the first time last evening. Did a WOT ROG and could barely hang on. I was airborne in about three feet and climbing like a homesick angel. I knew there would be a difference in power, but it is much more than I expected. Makes me realize that I was just limping around on the nimhs. I am using a 1000 mha lipo and once airborne I can throttle back two levels, trim it up, and fly around for twenty minutes and still land with 20%+ in the battery. Nimhs are parked!
Paul
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Post by bblalock on Sept 19, 2008 13:14:51 GMT 1
Paul, And don't forget that with the extra power you can fly in a bit more wind.
Benton
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Post by paulharris on Sept 19, 2008 19:13:57 GMT 1
And don't forget that with the extra power you can fly in a bit more wind. Thanks, already have!
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Post by garvey76 on Sept 21, 2008 14:42:13 GMT 1
HI ALL BEEN A WHILE SINCE LAST SPOKE. I need to go lipo, its the future! bblalock, when you say (with the fitting for the batt and the motor already installed) are you talking about the original motor or a brushless you already installed? i need help with the motor and how to mount, pics would be great help thanks
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Post by bblalock on Sept 22, 2008 15:06:57 GMT 1
garvey76, My SC is stock except for the plug adapter wire(bought at my LHS) that allows me to plug the lipo from my T-28 into the stock plug on the stock SC motor. I will try to get pics of the hole I cut in the batt box and where I gouged foam out of the fuse. I forgot to add that the bottom sensor for the ACT was pulled out because that is where the batt slides into the fuse after the foam is removed through the hole cut in the bottom back of the batt box. Keep in mind that the bottom of the batt box is just below the hatch we close that covers the batt for flight. I hope that was clear as mud! Benton
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Post by garvey76 on Sept 23, 2008 8:02:28 GMT 1
THANKS Benton great help. one more thing do you think a 2 cell lipo from the e-flight blade cx2 heli would be enough?
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Post by bblalock on Sept 23, 2008 15:15:08 GMT 1
garvey76, I am not the one to answer the 2c batt question. I have read quite a bit on this site about the 3c lipo so I knew I could do that with no big problem. Do a search here and on WattFlyer and you may find your answer.
A friend will try to post my pics showing the mod later today.
Benton
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Post by bblalock on Sept 23, 2008 18:34:00 GMT 1
garvey76 Here are my pics of the mod. #1 is looking into the batt box toward the back. I used black marker to better show the hole cut out of the batt box plastic(look closely). I left as much of the batt box plastic as possible so it would support the batt once it is stuffed in. #2 shows how the batt slides in to the rear of the box at a downward angle - remember I removed the rear ACT sensor and gouged out foam from that area #3 The $3 connector I bought from my LHS ready to use. No soldering or crimping. #4 Shows the batt installed with the original connector under the batt giving support to the batt. The blue connectors are on top and the velcro straps go on top of that to hold the batt tight. There is no movement at all as it is all stuffed into place. I probably spent 30 min. making this mod with most of that time trying to not cut any more of the box out or foam than necessary. Don't forget to remove the jumper from the ESC. Benton
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Post by flydiver on Sept 23, 2008 19:08:19 GMT 1
You realize you are continuing to use the dreaded and unreliable Tamiya connector. You'll be sorry........ fly
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Post by admiralev on Sept 23, 2008 22:49:54 GMT 1
go with the deans! they're really cheap and you have that extra piece of mind
if you cant solder just go to your LHS and they can put them in for you
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