Post by coupe1942 on Oct 11, 2013 8:13:54 GMT 1
I just put on a set of floats for sheer camera photo purposes. I wanted to build the set and check to see what I ran into by following the instructions. Unfortunately, the photos in the instructions are ones that have been copied over so many times, it is difficult to see just what they are actually showing many times. Any rate, here are some things that may be helpful in assembly if you have tired old eyes as mine.
1. Change out the eight provided screws for securing both the floats and the support rods. They are too soft a metal and simply get reamed out, stripped or wallowed out at the heads when the pressure is applied that is needed to completely tighten down the rods at the floats. Replace them with the same size screws, but go to allen head screws. The allen head screws tighten really good, but don't forget to have an allen wrench of the right size on hand and keep handy in your flight tool box.
2. The manual says to lock down the screws on the flat areas of the support rods and the landing gear metal. Since the parts are a dark black in color, it is difficult to see that the flat areas are pointed upwards as you tighten the bolts into the plastic tubes. A remedy for this for me was to simply dab a small patch of white out onto the opposite flat spot to one side of the support rod or landing gear rod. This allows you to look to see that the flat spot is positioned inside the plastic tube with it pointing up. If the white out side is up, then the other side that your tightening down will be the same. It is easier on the eyes to see that white out spot for reference as you tighten down the opposite side.
3. Don't tighten all eight screws in a row at one time. What will happen is that your floats will probably be a bit unlevel if done in this manner. Tighten the screws just enough to be almost ready to set into the flat spots, then use a cross pattern to put the final torque onto each screw holding the floats. This works to keep things level as you tighten each screw.
4. The provided screws for the rear landing gear plastic covers actually work okay. They do not require as much torque in installing them as the float screws do.
5. I put my floats together with the support rods and landing gear, before installing them to the plane. You do have to squeeze the front landing gear just as when you put on the landing gear with wheels, but it does seem to go in place a bit easier in my opinion. The rear landing gear setup is a piece of cake to install.
6. Check the balance and CoG once the floats are in place.
7. Don't overlook changing the prop to the one provided with the float set.
8. Once the float set is put together, it is pretty quick and easy to swap it out with the landing gear for wheels. Check to make sure all parts are actually secure and the floats are secured at the mounting points and the landing gear attachment points.
9. Expect to take a bit of time in assembly if you have never done this before, but it is easy enough to do.
There may be other ways to mount the float than what I am sharing, but this method worked well for me. It takes longer to hook up the landing gear with wheels and skirts than to hook up the floats when they are assembled and ready to go.
On my floats, I added the water rudder. This means putting a screw into the fuselage to hold it for when your on land. I added a small 3mm washer to make sure the float rudder didn't pop off the screw in flight. Again, the photos in the instructions are just about useless with this instruction booklet provided. I am not so sure at this point as to the rudder working 100% okay with this water rudder paddle in place on the fuselage. I have not yet tested it with my battery in the plane to make sure the rudder does not bind in any manner. That is one thing that i do want to check prior to any flight time with this water rudder in place. The water rudder is not a must have item in my opinion, but is an option.
Someone in another thread somewhere mentioned waxing the float bottoms. I plan to do that, myself. Not just because it may improve much in a landing, but because it may keep the somewhat soft float bottom plastic from getting as scratched up.
1. Change out the eight provided screws for securing both the floats and the support rods. They are too soft a metal and simply get reamed out, stripped or wallowed out at the heads when the pressure is applied that is needed to completely tighten down the rods at the floats. Replace them with the same size screws, but go to allen head screws. The allen head screws tighten really good, but don't forget to have an allen wrench of the right size on hand and keep handy in your flight tool box.
2. The manual says to lock down the screws on the flat areas of the support rods and the landing gear metal. Since the parts are a dark black in color, it is difficult to see that the flat areas are pointed upwards as you tighten the bolts into the plastic tubes. A remedy for this for me was to simply dab a small patch of white out onto the opposite flat spot to one side of the support rod or landing gear rod. This allows you to look to see that the flat spot is positioned inside the plastic tube with it pointing up. If the white out side is up, then the other side that your tightening down will be the same. It is easier on the eyes to see that white out spot for reference as you tighten down the opposite side.
3. Don't tighten all eight screws in a row at one time. What will happen is that your floats will probably be a bit unlevel if done in this manner. Tighten the screws just enough to be almost ready to set into the flat spots, then use a cross pattern to put the final torque onto each screw holding the floats. This works to keep things level as you tighten each screw.
4. The provided screws for the rear landing gear plastic covers actually work okay. They do not require as much torque in installing them as the float screws do.
5. I put my floats together with the support rods and landing gear, before installing them to the plane. You do have to squeeze the front landing gear just as when you put on the landing gear with wheels, but it does seem to go in place a bit easier in my opinion. The rear landing gear setup is a piece of cake to install.
6. Check the balance and CoG once the floats are in place.
7. Don't overlook changing the prop to the one provided with the float set.
8. Once the float set is put together, it is pretty quick and easy to swap it out with the landing gear for wheels. Check to make sure all parts are actually secure and the floats are secured at the mounting points and the landing gear attachment points.
9. Expect to take a bit of time in assembly if you have never done this before, but it is easy enough to do.
There may be other ways to mount the float than what I am sharing, but this method worked well for me. It takes longer to hook up the landing gear with wheels and skirts than to hook up the floats when they are assembled and ready to go.
On my floats, I added the water rudder. This means putting a screw into the fuselage to hold it for when your on land. I added a small 3mm washer to make sure the float rudder didn't pop off the screw in flight. Again, the photos in the instructions are just about useless with this instruction booklet provided. I am not so sure at this point as to the rudder working 100% okay with this water rudder paddle in place on the fuselage. I have not yet tested it with my battery in the plane to make sure the rudder does not bind in any manner. That is one thing that i do want to check prior to any flight time with this water rudder in place. The water rudder is not a must have item in my opinion, but is an option.
Someone in another thread somewhere mentioned waxing the float bottoms. I plan to do that, myself. Not just because it may improve much in a landing, but because it may keep the somewhat soft float bottom plastic from getting as scratched up.
