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Post by coupe1942 on Sept 26, 2013 0:50:21 GMT 1
Okay, I have searched, but either went right by the into or there is none discussed in this section. Is this prop okay to use on the stock Super Cub? GWS EP1080
It is the stock motor and all electronics are stock as well. At a later date, it will have floats added, but not for a bit. When the floats are later added, is this prop no longer a good one to use for the Cub like that?
Thanks for any info.
Double, triple checking myself, but the lettering on this prop always goes to the front when putting it into place on the shaft, correct?
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Post by kenninny on Sept 26, 2013 2:13:15 GMT 1
yes lettering forward, and the gsw 1080 prop is the same size prop that comes with the float set, it pull more amps from the motor for lifting off the water, after that you should throttle back. Don't fly full throttle with a 1080 prop or you risk burning up the motor, or esc, or both.
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Post by coupe1942 on Sept 26, 2013 2:22:31 GMT 1
Thanks for the info. I have the stock prop in place right now. Just juiced up my stock battery and ran it for a few minutes to adjust to the controls. Already I can see that I need to make some adjustment to the right rudder, but that should be fairly easy to do. Although I have covered up the ACT, I left it on when using the transmitter. The response time was a bit lagging at first, but I seem to have learned that pretty quickly in what to expect. Too late to go out flying a maiden flight this evening. I don't want to get ahead of myself and have some runs on the parking lot to do as I gain more control over the transmitter and plane. I want to run through a couple of battery charges in just doing that, first. Floats won't come until a bit later, so thanks for the above info on the prop. Taking things exceedingly slow, but with a purpose in mind. It works for me, too.
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Post by coupe1942 on Oct 13, 2013 5:26:01 GMT 1
The GSW 1080 props that I picked up are smaller on the center hole and the square that is cut out in the back side for the nut is smaller. This means that they don't fit onto the shaft of my stock Super Cub. I did finally locate the part # for the float prop: pkZ1005. It is in the manual under the Optional Parts section on p. 24. It is interesting that the tip on this is yellow, but the stock prop supplied with the floats is completely black. Maybe they ran out of paint... :-) secure.hobbyzone.com/PKZ1005.html
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jklong03
Squadron leader
Utah, USA (Yes, it is a state!)
Posts: 226
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Post by jklong03 on Oct 13, 2013 22:45:36 GMT 1
The GSW 1080 props that I picked up are smaller on the center hole and the square that is cut out in the back side for the nut is smaller. This means that they don't fit onto the shaft of my stock Super Cub. I did finally locate the part # for the float prop: pkZ1005. It is in the manual under the Optional Parts section on p. 24. It is interesting that the tip on this is yellow, but the stock prop supplied with the floats is completely black. Maybe they ran out of paint... :-) secure.hobbyzone.com/PKZ1005.htmlAs flydive has said many times, prop shaft holes are a total Crap shoot. Just pick the correct size drill bit and let it feed itself into the hole, that will help center the larger hole. Don't sweat the small stuff too much, modify what you need and press on. Almost nothing you don't buy directly from HZ is going to be a direct fit.
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Post by coupe1942 on Oct 14, 2013 0:26:48 GMT 1
It is not just the hole on these, but the square hole part that secures to the nut, too. I know a reamer would make short work of the hole enlargement, but you still have the problem with that square hole afterwards on this particular prop. That is, unless I am missing something about installing them correctly for use on the SC. No worries though, as I have several others on hand as spares.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 14, 2013 1:27:23 GMT 1
If you mean this prop: gwsprops.com/1080.JPGI don't suggest using it. It's a GWS slow-fly style (fat blades, tiny hub). It's weak, floppy, and only good for very low speed/power applications. You want this one: gwsprops.com/1080HD.JPG, or the 10x6DD Direct drive- skinny blade, fat hub. These are good props. Don't worry about the nut. Ream it out. Put a nut on the shaft to the ends of the threads. If the threads go inside the cowl you need 2 nuts jammed together. Put on a small washer, add prop, another small washer, another nut. Tighten. Once you move away from proprietary parts you frequently have to improvise, expect it. Lots of planes (motor actually) nave NO THEADS or nuts. You need to use a collet adapter. Getting used to using those is another RC rite of passage up there with chargers and lipos.
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