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Post by ninjasword71 on Sept 6, 2012 7:21:33 GMT 1
As I understand, this 10x8 was used on some early models and when floats are used. I am running a 11.1v 1300mah lipo with completely stock cub. Since 1300 is not a super battery, will the prop be more powerful and just use more amps or flexing badly under full throttle? I tried to find an answer for this setup but found nothing that was confirmed. My initial thought was that it seems to be a good match under 75% power. I rarely fly 100% throttle unless doing loops or avoiding a tree. The original prop barely warmed the battery when used aggressively. I see a ton of recommendations but are using a different battery or brushless.
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Post by flydiver on Sept 6, 2012 15:42:32 GMT 1
That's the old NiMh prop or the "current" float Prop. It pulls 19-20amps at full throttle. Neither the ESC or the battery (or the motor) were designed for it. There have been a LOT of problems with fried ESC. Some folks get away with it. Some don't. It's a matter of your flying style AND plain old luck of the draw in terms of the quality of the electronics. Read the threads about the float use. Use at your own risk. Personally I wouldn't do it. People think they can get away with things like this, over propping being so common it's an epidemic. Flying isn't forgiving. You learn after awhile. Horizon makes some great planes but occasionally they make some bad mistakes and they are terrible about ever correcting them. IMO that prop for floats is one of them. I suggest you read this for a more complete explanation. supercubclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=motors&action=display&thread=4624&page=1 |
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Post by ninjasword71 on Sept 14, 2012 3:21:50 GMT 1
Picked up a GWS 1060 today. Never tried the 10x8 sf one and probably won't bother. Now to try it out tomorrow. One question before departure: The new orange prop had to be reamed slightly to slide on but it has an nut holder on the front side. Is it ok to use the stock washer size and tighten it like the stock setup?
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Post by flydiver on Sept 14, 2012 5:08:11 GMT 1
As long as you pinch the prop securely between nuts and washers so it can't rotate on the shaft it should be OK. It's important to ream squarely.
FWIW, there's not much difference power-wise between the stock 9x6 and the GWS 10x6. The stock has slightly fatter blades and the GWS a bit longer > comes out about the same.
The 10x8 has longer and way fatter blades so draws a lot more power.
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Post by ninjasword71 on Sept 14, 2012 9:35:42 GMT 1
Does that mean a 10x7 may be the sweat spot for stock motor and a stock 1300 lipo? The 10x8 may be too much for stock receiver and GWS1060 much the same as stock 9x6. It seems HZ made a great flyer without mods since any change requires that a whole new system has to be installed.
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Post by flydiver on Sept 14, 2012 19:11:06 GMT 1
Depends on how you use it. The 10x8 if used at full throttle continuously WILL burn something up, often within 30 seconds.
The 10x7 will also but be a bit more forgiving.
The 10x6 and stock 9x6 are designed for more continuous operation (though borderline). I think you might cook something if you did full flights at full throttle.
ALL flying electronics operate that way. They have a continuous rating and a temporary maximum rating for a short period of time. WHICH component fries depends on the 'weakest link'.
I addition if it's Chinese and cheap you probably ought to knock 20% off those ratings if you don't like ugly surprises. HZ does not publish ANY specs for their proprietary power systems.
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