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Post by frazer1981 on Feb 18, 2008 19:48:06 GMT 1
Does the sticker on the underside of the plane that displays what channel its on have to match the sticker thats on the back of the controller? ie: my plane says ch2 yet my controller says ch4? it works but will it encounter problems
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jt01
Squadron leader
Posts: 166
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Post by jt01 on Feb 18, 2008 20:09:21 GMT 1
Yes they should match unless someone put on the wrong sticker. I've heard about interference from planes that are only one channel apart but not of having complete control. I assume that you have range checked and if all is well than it's probably just a sticker mix up.
Jim
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Post by frazer1981 on Feb 18, 2008 20:26:07 GMT 1
well no i havent range checked it as yet. The connector on the tamiya battery is loose so i was waiting to sort that out. I push and hold the connectors in place and the controller will move the rudder and elevator but when i get to near full power on the throttle it cuts the motor out? Ive read on another post here that that can be another possible fault but im just not certain
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jt01
Squadron leader
Posts: 166
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Post by jt01 on Feb 18, 2008 21:25:07 GMT 1
Get rid of those crappy stock connectors. They will always give you trouble. A good replacement would be solder on deans ultra plugs or crimp on Anderson power poles. Make sure to always do a range test before putting your plane in the air for your safety and others that may be in the area.
Jim
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Post by SCC on Feb 18, 2008 21:38:11 GMT 1
Does the sticker on the underside of the plane that displays what channel its on have to match the sticker thats on the back of the controller? ie: my plane says ch2 yet my controller says ch4? it works but will it encounter problems Maybe thats why it was £50. I would call the shop. |
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Post by sackohammers on Feb 19, 2008 5:12:35 GMT 1
Yeah, they need to match.
The Tamiya connectors are garbage. I stuck with mine for awhile and then they eventually started to fail. It is inevitable to fix it and most of us recommend using Deans instead of using Tamiya again.
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Post by frazer1981 on Feb 19, 2008 15:15:19 GMT 1
Went back to the shop and a new tx was given to me just in case. I think i will try the anderson power poles as i dont have a soldering gun.
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Post by SCC on Feb 19, 2008 16:21:09 GMT 1
Went back to the shop and a new tx was given to me just in case. I think i will try the anderson power poles as i dont have a soldering gun. Good news on the TX. Those andersons need a crimper which will probably cost the same as a standard soldering iron. Now once you have crimped your plugs that tool is now redundant until you have to crimp another plug. As for the soldering iron, that will probably come in useful many times. Before i started with this hobby i had never soldered anything. With a little practice and having a look at some ''how to'' vids, it's actually fairly easy and rewarding. |
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Post by frazer1981 on Feb 19, 2008 16:49:11 GMT 1
Ok thanks scc. I will look into that. Whats an ideal wattage for a soldering gun? ive seen that they come in different watts?
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Post by sackohammers on Feb 20, 2008 2:28:04 GMT 1
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Post by frazer1981 on Feb 20, 2008 10:05:32 GMT 1
Thanks Sackohammers!! Ill pick it up as i go along?!!
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Post by sackohammers on Feb 20, 2008 18:55:33 GMT 1
Read here and look at Kevin's video: supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?board=tt&action=display&thread=1201651437Go to YouTube and search for "soldering deans". There are also lots of posts on rcuniverse about soldering techniques. Just remember, don't touch the solder to the soldering iron when making a joint. Touching the solder to the iron is good for tinning the iron (when preparing to make a joint). Tinning the iron makes it transfer heat better (using a dry iron takes forever and makes you burn/melt things). Anyway, when you're making a joint, apply heat to your work, and apply the solder to the work, the heat should draw the solder across the work towards the soldering iron. This is how you get a good joint. If your work is taking forever to heat up (you have to hold everything together for awhile before the solder starts to melt) then something is wrong. You can try a few things: 1. let your iron heat up more before trying the make the joint 2. make sure your iron is clean - crusty black stuff isn't good - clean between making joints 3. properly tin your iron - either use the tip tinner I linked above, or touch a small bit of solder directly to your hot iron. A tinned iron will transfer heat much more quickly. Holding a properly tinned iron that is extremely hot for only 3-7 seconds to heat the work and make a joint is desirable. You'll notice that the wires and other things won't get too hot. A not-tinned iron, or an iron that isn't hot enough, will mean that you're holding the iron against the work for 10+ seconds to try to get it hot enough to melt the solder... whats going to happen is your wires, connector, and batteries (gasp) will start to get hot. This is undesirable. Also, hehe, your heatshrink will shrink before you move it over the joint. Good luck. Practise makes perfect. If you have a bad joint, heat it up, clean everything off, and start over. Good luck. |
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Post by frazer1981 on Feb 20, 2008 19:17:02 GMT 1
great tips there, thankyou
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