|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 13, 2011 14:38:47 GMT 1
I'll remove heatshrink n resolder....wish me luck!
|
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 13, 2011 17:34:28 GMT 1
No its the motor!! The efight 370 is a little pricey at £40 is there somethink cheep but reliable?
|
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Mar 13, 2011 19:26:16 GMT 1
You have a spare ESC?
If so hook it up to the motor and try it BRIEFLY (1-2 SECONDS ONLY!!!)
If it fires right up > the old ESC probably has an issue.
If it does the 'herky-jerky' > something in the motor is not right. Breaking a wire, sometimes hidden under shrink wrap, or doing a crappy bullet solder are the common problems. Pull firmly on the wires to check. Re-solder the bullets and try again.
DO NOT PUSH THIS EXPERIMENT with a different ESC!!
A non-turning motor under power is a DEAD SHORT! This WILL fry your ESC in seconds. Notice how many newbies fry the stock ESC with a crash or simple nose-over by failing to turn off the throttle.
|
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 13, 2011 19:53:58 GMT 1
V true i resolderd all conections tho!i tryed my other brushless out the cub gearbox with the esc im useing n it worked so it defo the motor?
Is there nothink i can do...its like the poles have reversed if that makes sence!
|
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Mar 13, 2011 20:37:51 GMT 1
If you re-soldered the bullets and the external wires seem to be intact then a wire could be broken inside. You have to pull it apart and inspect carefully for that. Not the same motor but is comes apart pretty much like this. www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9QQi7VeXecSometimes, if you are good and careful you can splice the wires back on. Tricky micro-soldering required. You didn't happen to use screws too long to mount the motor? These can go inside, crush the windings which shorts them, and ruin the motor. Nothing can be done about that. |
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 13, 2011 21:22:32 GMT 1
No they are close but not touching...this is my 4th efight 370...and the same has happened to all of them!
Even the boss in the lhs couldnt explane n thats why they have replaced 3 stutering motors!
Dont think.they will replace no 4!!
|
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Mar 13, 2011 22:10:09 GMT 1
4? That would seem to point at something you are doing. eflite motors aren't that fragile. TowerPro-maybe.
|
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 13, 2011 23:39:19 GMT 1
Seems that way....but cant understand how becouse iv asked in the lhs n bought the props they advised!
I did run this one with a 9x4.5 prop and same 40a esc..so unless i burned it up but it was only in the air for 30secs at half power when i heard a grinding noise then shut off power!
|
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Mar 13, 2011 23:59:42 GMT 1
There are 3 versions of the 370. www.e-fliterc.com/PowerSystems/Motors/BrushlessCharts.aspxProp size would be particular to the KV of the motor and battery used. If you had the highest KV (1360) on 3S then that prop is way too big. On the lowest KV motor (1080) it seems about right. Grinding noise just doesn't sound right. Loose magnet rubbing. Some kind of metal garbage got inside? I've had tiny washers and c-clips sucked into motors before. That taught me to keep them in plastic bags when out of the plane. IMO any info your hobby shop gives you is suspect until proven otherwise. Some of the guys in a lot of shops don't know squat about electric power. Some are just fine. You really have to follow up on the advice I think. |
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 14, 2011 10:50:10 GMT 1
Its the 1080 so i cant understand!
|
|
|
|
Post by ginginho on Mar 14, 2011 13:11:00 GMT 1
What make is the ESC? If it's a SP one (from giantcod) then this may be the problem. They are the cheapest around and I've found that they can cause the motor to stutter as if something is wrong. I've given up on them as they seem to be really picky about how well they work with different motors, instead spending a little more and getting a HobbyWing which I know works well.
You could try this motor with the ESC from the other bird to prove if you are suffering what I (and my mates) have seem with the cheap (n' nasty) ESCs.
|
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 14, 2011 13:57:28 GMT 1
My esc is hobbywing lol there is nothink inside no loose wires so dont no  |
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Mar 14, 2011 15:33:02 GMT 1
ESC have a bunch of FET (field effect transistors) inside. Often one or several of these can fry if you tried to fly with a shorted motor. Now you have a bad ESC that may run on low load but acts up under higher load. This could happen to ANY ESC.
I agree with gringinho that in general some ESC are better than others (I dislike TowerPro). But, any individual ESC can go bad, some can come bad, and oddly even quality brand names like Castle can sometimes just not be happy with a particular motor. I recently had a Phoenix 25 no be able to run an inrunner that my crappy TowerPro bench test ESC ran just fine. I was puzzled and annoyed about that.
I have a brand new Suppo that will run 3S but not 2S though it is supposed to do both. It also has poor throughput power even on 3S. It's obviously defective.
And I have 2 HobbyWing that are burned out (only a single FET got) while I was learning that I need to quit trying to make a defective motor run.
|
|
|
|
Post by pauliepilot on Mar 14, 2011 18:55:42 GMT 1
Its a arrowing esc sorry....but this esc n motor was used on my wing for months so i am real confused!
|
|
|
|
Post by flydiver on Mar 14, 2011 20:29:52 GMT 1
Its a arrowing esc sorry....but this esc n motor was used on my wing for months so i am real confused! Doesn't matter. I've had them fail, in the air, while flying. Yes, it happens. Are you actually going to tell me that wing NEVER went down hard? Sometimes the only way to figure out what is wrong is start replacing suspect parts with KNOWN good parts. You mean Arrowind? Looks like a "Mystery" to me. Mystery is a re-brand ESC so Arrowind is a re-brand of a re-brand. No personal experience with them. |
|
