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Post by kalvinklein on Dec 30, 2010 19:15:06 GMT 1
Ok I have a old super cub that I want to convert to LP. Is there a thread on how to do this?
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Post by alaskabliss on Dec 30, 2010 22:29:34 GMT 1
Here are the steps:
Buy a Lipo battery
Install Lipo battery
Fly your lp super cub
If you want to go the extra mile, get the new decals, that will really fool everyone!!!
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Post by boogienm on Dec 30, 2010 22:49:02 GMT 1
There are a couple of other items to think about. your stock super cub should have a small jumper near the act plug that connects two pins together. this is your low voltage cutoff. without removing the jumper your cutoff will kill a lipo batt. [When the jumper is present the auto-cut is set at about 5.7 volts, which works with 6- to 9-cell Ni-MH battery packs. When the jumper is absent, the auto cut is set at about 8.8 volts, which will function correctly with a 3S Li-Po Battery.] there are post's in this forum more about this. also spend a little extra money and get a good charger for your lipo's if you don't already have one. Then refer to alaskabliss's post and enjoy
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Post by kalvinklein on Dec 30, 2010 23:23:04 GMT 1
How do I plug a lipo into the main motor? The battery I have is the one where it's like 6 battery's connected together.
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Post by boogienm on Dec 30, 2010 23:58:31 GMT 1
You will have to change the plug on your ESC or buy or make an adapter. my experience with the white plug (tamaya) is that they won't carry enough current. you would be better off upgrading to an EC3 or Deans plug or whatever your battery comes with. a bit of soldering will be required, if your not up to the challenge you might think about going to your local hobby shop if you have one. also any electronic/computer repair place can solder it for you as well. Your stock ESC will handle the lipo. as i understand it the only difference between your original cub and a lp was a change in plug, adding a lipo battery and the color of the decals on the plane. be cautious of eBay lipo's as some are very poor quality. the stock 1300 my SC came with gives me about 20 min of flight time with no loops or hard flying. about 10 min with aggressive flying. also try not to hit the low voltage cutoff on your lipo as it can damage the battery. lipo's do not like to be over discharged. also with the charger i mentioned earlier make sure that it's a balance charger to keep all the cells equal. there is more info at this link in this thread on page 2 {Upgrading to LiPo's and getting mixed information}.
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Post by toff on Jan 1, 2011 1:58:11 GMT 1
Do it! Do it! Do it! Do it!Do it! Do it! Do it! Do it! Your cub will love you, and you will love your cub so much more if you just Dooo it! Change the stock ESC tamiya connectors to deans/ EC3/ (your choice) connectors (cut off the existing ones, solder in your choice and cover with heatshrink (or tape), move the little black jumper on the stock reciever, plug in and.... fly! s461.photobucket.com/albums/qq340/toffas1/?action=view¤t=SDC13208.jpg" This is a rubbish pic of my connectors, just to show what I mean! |
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Post by kalvinklein on Jan 1, 2011 5:33:50 GMT 1
Where can I buy these connecters at. Sorry for all the questions, but i've been out of the RC game for about 10-15 years and just now getting back into it the last year or so.
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Post by boogienm on Jan 1, 2011 6:58:56 GMT 1
Asking questions is how we all learn. On the connectors it really depends on your location, where you get your batteries and your ability to solder. ebay is a good place for connectors, horizonhobby.com for the ec3, towerhobby.com are a few resources out there. many many places to by batteries and connectors. if your looking to stay with your stock battery box then your best bet is to order the 1300 mha 3 cell lipo from horizonhobby. i'm not sure of another battery that will direct fit but i'm sure there are lots of them out there.
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Post by kalvinklein on Jan 1, 2011 7:01:32 GMT 1
So let me get this straight. I'm basically cutting off the old battery conecttion at the connecter. Sodering on the new one and I'm good to go?
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Post by kalvinklein on Jan 1, 2011 7:04:51 GMT 1
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Post by higgsbosonman on Jan 1, 2011 17:29:55 GMT 1
don't switch the polarity of the battery when you solder! bad, bad mistake... (you'll release the magic smoke)
the connector should work if you go with that battery. you'll need a charger, though. and the NI-XX charger for your pack now won't do it. the one for the LP is a piece of fermented horse dookie, so you'd need something else. wait for some reccomendations, because i have no experience with li-pos.
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Post by boogienm on Jan 1, 2011 18:25:22 GMT 1
This is more of what you will need www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLAEC303 make sure that u use the male plug for your esc as the lipo will have the female plug. I agree with higgsbosonman about the stock charger. i have 2 that work ok but not what i use daily. I currently have a venom pro charger and it works great. some people have problems with static electricity killing their charger (venom pro charger). any good quality balance charger should serve you well such as www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=THP610CACDC also check out Hobbyking.com as they also sell balance chargers, I have no experience with their product but i believe you get what you pay for. Your charger will probably be the most expensive part of your switch to lipo. If you get a good charger, you can control how many amps you charge at and you will be able to have multiple batteries at different mAh rating. The battery you list is the stock super cub lp lipo. this battery you will want to charge at 1.3 amps and no more. if you have a 1800 mAh 1.8 amps ect. over charging a lipo will cause it to swell and in extreme cases explode. simple way to figure and keep you safe is the lipo mAh rating X .001. (1800X.001= 1.8amps) |
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Post by flydiver on Jan 1, 2011 19:30:13 GMT 1
over charging a lipo will cause it to swell and in extreme cases explode. simple way to figure and keep you safe is the lipo mAh rating X .001. (1800X.001= 1.8amps) Don't be spreading bad information. GOOD PRACTICE is to charge at 1C as you describe. In reality MOST, if not ALL, lipos can pretty safely be charged at 2C. Better chargers (FMA Cellpro 4S) have been charging at 1-3C for years with no problems at all. The charger will simply start out faster but ramp down the same as it nears the end. Some new lipos are actually able to charge at 5C and that is noted on them. Don't do that unless the lipo is specifically designed for that. You'll need a serious charger to do so. |
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Post by boogienm on Jan 1, 2011 20:41:39 GMT 1
I'm not sure what is bad about the info i gave. If someone is just starting out with lipo they should only charge at 1C until they understand the concept of the C rating. The battery he listed above per the MANUFACTURE should only be charged at 1C. As for extreme cases we had a fellow at the LHS not understand the C rating for charging lipo and nearly burned his house down. His mistake not the battery or charger. any charger is only a tool to be used appropriately.
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Post by john66 on Jan 1, 2011 21:44:49 GMT 1
Don't be spreading bad information. Now that's just plain rude.... The guys Just trying to help out with the knowledge he has. John |
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