monokote/econokote?

[phil]

maybe I posted this question in the wrong catagory, or maybe we got to political. But is anyone interested in helping?

I bought Monokote to cover my SC wing, oops. now the Question is, can I use Monokote on foam. I now know I should have used Econokote. Monokote activates at 215-240degrees, and Econokote at 190-210 degrees. at what temp does foam melt or warp?
I've read that you can prep the foam to accept Monokote by covering the wing with a thin layer of Spackle (I assume to draw the heat evenly) as well as spraying the wing with 3M-77 spray adhesive (Black Can not Red), again (I assume it has a lower heat activation), and done with, or without the Spackle.

Can anyone help?

[leisureshoot]

I'm not positive, so I am hesitant to offer advise when not absolutledy sure.
But, I seem to remember that you need to use the lowest setting with foam, or it will deform (start to melt). I believe this is with Econokote. If true, Monokote will require too high an activation temp.

The answer may be in here... no matter what, it should prove helpful in method.

[Dillzio]

I should be able to help with this one, and I promise I won't bring politics into it at all.

From what I've read, monokote CAN be used on foam, it's just that econokote will prob stick a bit better, because you won't be able to heat the monokote enough for it to stick really well. With that being said, it prob won't matter, because every so often you'll have to go over it with the iron again anyway as the foam flexes and the covering separates from it.

Get your iron all ready to use with a cotton sock over it, and find yourself an old piece of polystyrene. Do a bit of experimentation and find out exactly how much heat the foam can take for how long before it starts to bubble. Now cut off a strip of econokote and do some practicing on the polystyrene with that. Once the film sticks to the foam, you can see the texture of the foam through it perfectly. You basically want to heat it to the point that the cells making up the foam just start to expand and bubble out a bit.

I found it was best to find a relatively low temp that will allow the film to stick, then mark that on the iron. After everything was in place, I'd then go over it with the iron set to 'synthetic' and rub over the film as much as I could before the foam underneath just started to bubble.

if you can coat the foam with an even layer of spray adhesive then it's going to give the foam an extra layer of protection against the heat. It will probably help the film to stick better too.

Hope this helps.

[Dillzio]

oh go suck on an old tea bag John, you English love ur tea right?

[Dillzio]

:-P

[phil]

Thanks Dillzio, and leisureshoot, that gives me a little more confidence and I'm going to give it a shot.

[leisureshoot]

Sept 5, 2010 13:00:40 GMT 1 phil said:

I'm going to give it a shot.

Why not? A fuse or wing is what - $20 (less if you look around - I've seen both on ebay for $7+shipping)? If you are covering the fuse, you'll probably need decals anyway, so you can order the new piece with the replacement decals to save shipping cost.


On ebay, I found a wing and fuse for approx $25 shipped from the seller "hopmeup" when you combine shipping on both items.
toys.shop.ebay.com/Radio-Control-Control-Line-/2562/i.html?For%2520Vehicle%2520Brand=HobbyZone&Part=!&LH_Price=..10%40c&rt=nc&_catref=1&_dmpt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&_ipg=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_ssn=hopmeup&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282


If you aren't happy with the results, you can always get a new one for minimal cost. Or, if you have damage to your current wing or fuse, do some experiments with your current damaged piece, buy a replacement first, and see what temp works best with your iron, and your covering on the old piece. .

Whatever you do, post pictures, and let us know how it worked out.

[flydiver]

This may be of value:
Covering and Finishing R/C models- A Primer
www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51697

It would appear monokote is 'too hot' for foam. I've no personal experience.

Here's a lot more detail on how to work with the stuff :
Covering Tutorial for Beginning Builders
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711624

Another issue. Since a lot of the surface area is behind the CG, if you cover it all with 'kote' you further compound the problems of a tendency toward tail heaviness from a full mod.

[leisureshoot]

Are you just covering the wings, or the fuselage, too?
flydiver brought up the center of gravity issue.
Since SC's are sort of tail heavy, once you starting playing around with them, adding all the coating in the back makes it extra tail-heavy. However, if Econokote is thinner, that might help.

If you are just coating your wing, then it shouldn't be an issue.

[toff]

Dunno if this is any help or not, but I've just been reading up about coverings for depron foamies. Cheap and simple - newspaper and watered down white wood glue (PVA). Lightweight and dries to a hard shell. I might give this a go ( Once sc storch has had a few flights). Suits my pocket size - practically free! ;D

[leisureshoot]

Holy hell! That is ingenious.
A coating that accepts paint well, and is lightweight and simple.
My only question would be if it would fold over smoothly or wrinkle a lot.

[toff]

From what i can gather, for complex curves, a bit of careful cutting is needed, beyond that, paint thinned down PVA onto plane, place paper, paint thinned PVA on top, use large brush to flatten. Leave to dry, sand any areas that have bubbled. I'll try and find the post, so I can link to it.
Chris.

[toff]

Cant find the newspaper one at the mo, but heres one about an avro vulcan done with brown paper. web.ukonline.co.uk/ray.archer/index4.html