Getting ready for flight!

[gagallagher04401]

Well got my super cub today. Put it all together.

I have 2-1/2" dibro super lite wheels on the way, and a 1" wheel for the rear. I have 3 batteries, 2 stock, and one 1500mah pack.

I taped all around the wing with packing tape. I did the popsicle mod across the top on the back where the wing goes on. ( It wears badly with time.

I also taped other various spots on the plane like on the bottom just ahead of battery box, and at the rear where the 3 round holes are. Also covered the holes on the cowl. Reason I did all that was because I maiden flight will be this weekend while there is snow on the ground and I want to be prepared as possable.

Anyone think all the tape I used will cause problems? I don't
think it could but I want to ask.

Is there any way to make sure the rudder, and (the other one) can't remember what it is called at the moment. Are all centered and trimmed correct so plane will fly straight, etc.. before I am tyrign to get into the air for the first time?

THANKS!
George

[flydiver]

Make sure TX trim tabs are centered, Turn on TX, insert battery, servos should 'center'.
Now check rudder & elevator. They should be essentially in line with their non-movable parts (stabilizers).
If not use the small screw adjustable parts attached to the control horns to make them in line (power on. for safety consider removing the prop).
TX trim tabs are for minor adjustments in flight.

Make sure everything moves the direction it is supposed to. I did a maiden flight with a boy and his Mom that showed up at the flying field today. They had done their homework-well set up. I gave it full throttle and showed them I needed to do NOTHING and it took off straight and easy.

Tape job sounds good.
Use small stick movements. Over control and wild oscillations are the newbies bane. Avoid wind over 5mph. Fly in a BIG field, larger than you suspect-at least 2 football fields without trees or other obstacles. Cubs are attracted to obstacles.

You HAVE disconnected ACT, right? At least turn it OFF!!

[ginginho]

Fly has pretty much covered it, all I can add is good luck!

[SCC]

Hi George.
The holes in the cowling do help to keep your motor cool with air flow. A better solution than tape would be to use a mesh like fly screen and glue over the holes from inside of the cowl. This will allow airflow into the cowl but should keep the snow out on landing. I'm sure you will be alright with the tape but the mesh does look pretty cool.

As you have made some reinforcements around the tail,I would check that your CoG is around the 2.5 inch mark from the wings leading edge.
A tail heavy plane is no fun

Good luck with your flight. Let us know how you get on.

Regards
Paul

[gagallagher04401]

"I would check that your CoG is around the 2.5 inch mark from the wings leading edge"

Pics/detail instructions on how to check this?
Leading edge, what is that exactly mean?

I know it must sound harder then it is. So if I can do it once I will be all set.
Thanks
George

[SCC]

Leading edge is the front edge of your wing.
Now you can do this with home made tool like this.
supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?board=tt&action=display&thread=872&page=1#5551

Or use your fingertips, which is what I do.
You would of noticed that Jim says his CG came out at 2 inches. Now I have not flown my SC for sometime but my CG marks are at 2.5 and I was happy with the way she flew.

I think anything from 2 to 2.5 will fly good.

[gagallagher04401]

How do you hold it with your fingers and tell if it is level? Seems tough to get your head around to get a god look, and fingers seem kinda big to be exact. I am guessing "exact" is used loosly when checking the COG?

what should be level? elevator? fuelsalage?

What do I do if I find it either tail or nose heavy? I think I may be a touch tail heavy, but that is my g/f telling me whilelooking at the side, while I balance it with my finger tips.

Thanks
George

[flydiver]

Fingers for the Cub are fine. Don't over tax yourself. The Cub CG is sloppy as hell. I figure it's got at least an inch of play in the CG. People have run entire threads on the 'real' CG and since it's not published by HZ it's all conjecture anyway.

You seem to be the kind fuss about these things so build a small CG tool. You can make it out of wooden pencils and a chunk of 2x4 in about 10" with a drill.

Finger are too inexact with a lot of delta wings or other sensitive (small) planes.

[gagallagher04401]

the fuss is me being an engineer. In my line of work I have to be exact.
Well checking the COG with my fingers it seemed to be right around 2-1/2" so I guess I am good to go.

I also added the fishing clip to hold the wing struts to the fusalage, for easy removal. How tight shoud the struts be?

also what if I took and turned everything on and gave the plave a good toss to see how the rudder, and elevator are, and adjust before actually going airborn, or should I just give her a shot and fly her? Trying to have everything as perfect as possable before going to the air.

Thanks
George

[flydiver]

Struts are barely slack when resting. They take up tension under flight. Pick up by wing tips to simulate.

I wouldn't toss it unless you have tall grass to toss it into. You are just likely to have your first crash without even the satisfaction of trying to fly.

Try to just let it take itself off. Do NOT apply elevator or only the tiniest amount. Over correction, especially when taking off is the newbie's bane. Of course take off into the wind.

If you want to 'fuss' some more go find a large empty parking lot and taxi around without the wing. Go just fast enough to move easily but not tip over on big easy turns. You can get used to control movements, get a bit of feel for the reverse control of the plane coming at you, break in your motor at less than full throttle (good for the brushes), and cycle the battery which will improve its power. You also get use to the squirrely quality it has on the ground before take off. Controlling direction with that little rear wheel is a learned skill.

[ginginho]

Jan 23, 2009 3:02:25 GMT 1 gagallagher04401 said:

the fuss is me being an engineer. In my line of work I have to be exact.
Well checking the COG with my fingers it seemed to be right around 2-1/2" so I guess I am good to go.

I also added the fishing clip to hold the wing struts to the fusalage, for easy removal. How tight shoud the struts be?

also what if I took and turned everything on and gave the plave a good toss to see how the rudder, and elevator are, and adjust before actually going airborn, or should I just give her a shot and fly her? Trying to have everything as perfect as possable before going to the air.

Thanks
George

George, if you are still conerned about the CoG and how to check, take a peek at supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=sccgeneral&thread=1843&page=1 I use a similar ex-coathanger and it works well, you can hang the SC on it, walk away and inspect how level it is, then mark and measure.

BTW, the CoG on my cub comes in at around 2 and 3/16" and flys well. It's had some mod's so this won't be the stock CoG.

[gagallagher04401]

For motor break in could I just throttle up the plane in my living room with the throttle up just to wear the plane wil not move, and let it run through a battery? This will also cycle the battery as well?

Thanks

[flydiver]

Not advised. Engine/battery needs airflow to cool. Only do that if run on a low setting. Some performance packages will truly burn up if treated that way.

Center of the prop does not move enough air to cool the motor.

[gagallagher04401]

Well then what if I did it the way I mentioned and setup a fan blwingon the end of the plane?

Thanks

[SCC]

Jan 23, 2009 18:54:48 GMT 1 gagallagher04401 said:

Well then what if I did it the way I mentioned and setup a fan blwingon the end of the plane?

Thanks

I really would not bother with all this breaking in of a cheap $10 motor.
Just fly and enjoy. JMHO