Paint tests

[steelcutter]

Did some paint tests today with a mangled fuselage I had on hand and with what paint I had available. I purposely kept the paint nozzles within 6" and made no attempt at even coverage, Just blasted the paint on until it ran to get as much paint,solvent and propellant as I could in as small area as I could. I then left it alone for two hours, YMMV of course.

1. Krylon fusion (yellow): Did not affect the main fuselage but did melt the fuselage bottom insert.

2. Krylon regular (yellow) same as fusion

3. Krylon clear (matte and gloss) same as above

4. Krylon white primer: Didn't affect main fuselage and slightly pitted bottom insert. might be worth a closer look.

5. Testors spray enamel (Dark Blue) Affected neither, not too surprising considering its formulated for styrene.

6. Boyds enamel ( Pearl blue) same as the testors.

7. Sig Supercoat dope and thinner: No effect on fuselage but melted insert panel.

As an aside i did paint my Cub with Krylon fusion over the weekend (I taped over the bottom panel). Since I had a goof and have to repaint the wing top I put packing tape on it and then pulled it off. No damage to the paint at all. Will try the tape test on the fuselage tomorrow. Like I said YMMV.

[admiralev]

how much did all of that paint cost you? seems like a lot for some tests lol. thanks for the research. this has always been a debated issue

[duck]

Tamiya acrylic spray cans work on all parts, but the acrylic doesn't bond well with the plastic pieces ( cowl, spinner, battery box etc)

I used standard spray enamel on the plastic bits and then sprayed my color over that.

Tape will pull the paint though.

[duck]

Experience has occured.

Even industrial enamel doesn't stick well to the SC cowl, and similar parts.

I'm, going to try fine sanding next for some bite.

[Ellis]

Oct 8, 2008 5:50:54 GMT 1 duck said:

Experience has occured.

Even industrial enamel doesn't stick well to the SC cowl, and similar parts.

I'm, going to try fine sanding next for some bite.

On my new Cub I'm working on, I sanded it with 220 grit and primed with Sherman Williams Bonding Primer. It doesn't hold against accidentally getting a piece of Gorilla Tape stuck to it, DOH! But it seems to hold better than other primers I've tried.

E

[cubber]

i tell you what rust-oleum UNIVERSAL is the stuff you gotta use. Bottom line.

[steelcutter]

Sorry for the late followup. Using duck HD packing tape pressed on and left 24 hrs. every paint I tried pulled up to a certain extent.
Cubber, will pick up a can or two of the rustoleum next time I'm in the city (90 mile drive ;D) and give it a try. The fusion did scuff slightly on the cowl after nosing over a couple of times, nothing I cant live with. BTW here's a pic after the rebuild.

[killioughtta]

I know this is an old post but I'm working on my cub now so here it goes:

I just finished some tests on a used fuselage tonight. I'm putting videos up now: www.youtube.com/user/killioughtta

I used Rust-oleum Painter's Touch and Enamel and had no effect at all on the main fuselage whether I sprayed 3 inches away or 12. It didn't melt the foam anywhere.

The bottom insert was melted at close range (3 inches) but sustained no damage at 12 inches away.

This is the same result for both paints.

cubber suggested Universal paint but I couldn't find any of the colors I wanted at The Home Depot.

As for the tape: Dude, use blue painter's tape! It's made exactly for this kind of stuff. It sticks well to paint and peels off easily without damaging it AND leaves no adhesive behind.

For the cowl, spinner and prop, you can sand it with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper. I used 600 grit WetSand underwater and made the surface rough enough for the paint to stick.

I'll be working on mine through the next week or so.

[badlands]

Surely dying the white plastic parts with rit dye would be better than any paint?

I do this to white rc truck wheels & the color will NEVER chip away.

[badlands]

Tried dying the white plastic parts - didnt work for me, the plastic didnt absorb the dye.