Trojan prop.

[tuscany]

The prop from my trojan bolts on the cub with a washer on the back side and a spacer to cenetr the prop, the spinner even screws back on.

It's allot stiffer than the stock cub prop and specs out to be a 9.75 x 7.75

[airborn]

have you flown with the trojan prop on it...

how did it perform

Thanks
Rich

[flyer88]

Yes I've flown with it from day one ! Great prop.......

[madeuce36]

Can you demonstrate how to adapt the t28 prop and spinner to the super cub?

[flyer88]

Honestly the best solution is to run a EFlite slowflyer prop, as it will just needs to be drilled out a bit. Then add the nut and tighten it down.

The Trojan prop works well but the 10 x 7 SF prop is just as good and easier to install for a stock set-up.

[madeuce36]

What about for a lipo set up? Will the eflite be ok?

[flyer88]

Slow flyer props work perfectly with Lipos. SF props are very efficient, and give lots of thrust with less power

[madeuce36]

OK, I must have gotten confused reading so many posts. I thought I understood that there was a danger of frying the equipment if sf type props were used with lipos. I was thinking the stock prop was a slow fly prop.

[flydiver]

It's got nothing in particular to do with SF vs 'thin electric/direct drive/hyperdrive props. It has to do with amp draw. The stock prop is a largish SF. Add a 3S and it turns MUCH FASTER which increases the power LOTS, BUT increases the amp draw LOTS. Stock electrics are not designed for that big an increase, nor is the motor.

It has been found that they handle GWS 10x6 HD at about 13A well. You can try a smaller SF prop but you are looking for about 13A. Without a wattmeter you are playing in the dark.

Can you go larger? Sure, your plane, your risk. Some folks get away with it, other don't, depends a lot on how you fly.

Flyer88 - be careful of the term 'efficient'. It has a specific meaning. For RC it's power in compared to power out. In general a SF prop is often less efficient. It does provide more thrust but at the expense of more drag and more amps consumed. This 'can' (but not necessarily) makes it less efficient. There are a lot of variables.

I have a buddy I proved to him for a particular motor and battery combo a GWS DD was more efficient. He didn't like the way it flies. He prefers a SF prop. He has a notion that using a SF prop at less throttle is more efficient that a DD at more throttle for THAT application, in spite of the numbers.

What is important is that you don't seriously exceed the parameters of any part of your power system. After that, it's purely subjective.

Read this:
supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=batt&thread=1831&page=1

[patmatgal]

Oh what fun! Broke the O ring on a prop saver and didn't have a spare O ring with me but I did have a 2 bladed T-28 prop on a 3 mm adaptor. took off and Up... Up...Up... and more Up... verticle climbing until I was afraid of losing sight of the plane, NEVER experienced that with any other prop on the Super Cub. Oh but what a price to pay, the first flight was just less than 15 minutes and the battery came back with 9.7 volts remaining, OUCH! Next 2 batteries were 10 minute flights and things seem OK, but still I'm just guessing.

[Dillzio]

In Lipos, the stock prop size is 9x6. Having said that, the GWS 10x6 weighs less, and I have read that it draw less amps then the stock 9x6, so size isn't everything - the design and weight of the prop has as much to do with how much power it will draw as the prop's size.

Apparently, running the stock prop from the original super cub, the 10x8, is a very good way to burn out your stock ESC. It is the recommended prop for if you do the floats upgrade, but you wouldn't want to use WOT for more than 15 seconds straight. GWS also do a 9x7 prop, that would probably be a good compromise between power and efficiency. I'll be getting some with my next order from HobbyKing.

[killioughtta]

Sept 20, 2009 6:56:39 GMT 1 Dillzio said:

Apparently, running the stock prop from the original super cub, the 10x8, is a very good way to burn out your stock ESC. It is the recommended prop for if you do the floats upgrade, but you wouldn't want to use WOT for more than 15 seconds straight. GWS also do a 9x7 prop, that would probably be a good compromise between power and efficiency. I'll be getting some with my next order from HobbyKing.

My experience conflicts with what I have been told here on the SCC regarding the proper prop to use with 3S LiPos. I have used a GWS 10x6 which is the most recommended prop with LiPos and I must admit, the power was almost doubled and the Cub was lots of fun but I also have plenty of flights on the stock 10x8 and I have not had any problems with anything burning out or damaging. In fact, I have twice the power with that prop and a 3S 20C LiPo than stock and 2200 mAh help me out for 20 minutes of flight time.

Another note, I read somewhere here that flying WOT is actually less likely to burn out your ESC than, lets say, half-throttle. If someone knows what that's about, or if I'm totally wrong about it, write back ;D

Here are some propellers I have bought; some by mistake and some out of advice: [left-to-right] MasterAirscrew 10x6 (too heavy, for nitro planes; need to sell), SC stock 10x8 (will use for airboat or new Cub), GWS 10x6 (in black AND orange) and [on the plane] a TowerPro 9x6 (on a BL motor):

[flydiver]

Sept 20, 2009 16:04:58 GMT 1 killioughtta said:

Another note, I read somewhere here that flying WOT is actually less likely to burn out your ESC than, lets say, half-throttle. If someone knows what that's about, or if I'm totally wrong about it, write back

This is a quote from this page about how an ESC controls motor speed:
www.4qdtec.com/pwm-01.html

To control the speed of a d.c. motor we need a variable voltage d.c. power source. However if you take a 12v motor and switch on the power to it, the motor will start to speed up: motors do not respond immediately so it will take a small time to reach full speed. If we switch the power off sometime before the motor reaches full speed, then the motor will start to slow down. If we switch the power on and off quickly enough, the motor will run at some speed part way between zero and full speed. This is exactly what a p.w.m. controller does: it switches the motor on in a series of pulses. To control the motor speed it varies (modulates) the width of the pulses - hence Pulse Width Modulation.

The voltage is SWITCHED on and off at FULL voltage.

If you use WOT this pulls the battery voltage down lower (sags). So the BEC portion of the ESC does not have to work as hard to lower the voltage to the Servos and RX. At part throttle there is less sag > higher voltage > more work for the BEC. Since a LOT (majortiy) of BEC in cheap ESC are low amp rating this is more prone to failure.

In the Cub's case you (maybe) spare the BEC portion of the ESC at the expense of the motor if you use WOT on too large of a prop. You also risk exceeding the UNKNOWN limits of the ESC itself since PZ is kind enough not to tell us that data. I'm SURE they know, but I'm SURE they don't tell customer service.

Edit - the last statement is for the STOCK ESC/RX unit.
If you have changed to a different ESC it's on YOU to know the specs of that unit and use appropriately. There are numerous threads on UBEC's and Spectrum Brown out. Failure to understand this stuff will make your plane fall out of the sky.

[killioughtta]

Right. I knew there was something to it. I rather replace a $12 motor than a $25 ESC.

[patmatgal]

killioughta
Those MAS 10X6 nitro props are very durable though. Flew them while trying to learn not to break electric props, now that I'm using GWS 10X6 the flight times are 5 minutes longer and the battery comes back with a little extra voltage so it should be better. I burnt up a stock motor on a Super Cub once, flying with a Li Po and stock 10X8 prop. As I recall it was shortly into the 5th flight, motor quit downfield and when I recovered the plane there was an awful burning smell from the cowl. I had wanted to use up the stock motors I had lying around and am not sure if that one had been lightly abused or heavily abused.