GWS Reduction Series propeller 10x8

[jbcub76]

Will this propeller work on a bone stock super cub? I believe I will have to drill the center but other than that, would it work?

Thanks in advance!

[flydiver]

Yes. The GWS RS props are a bit 'floppy'. As long as you are using them in a stock system they work OK.
You might like this read:
www.ampaviators.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=17&Itemid=28
Read the 2 articles on props and anything else of interest.

fly

[jbcub76]

Thanks flydiver, I'll check it out.

[flydiver]

Stock props are OK but too expensive. I used an e-flite 10x7 SF on mine with a prop saver. The power of the Cub is on the high side for a prop saver so If you go that route double up on the securing bands.

fly

[jbcub76]

Any suggestions on where to get the GWS 10x6 or the Eflite 10x7 you mention online?

I unfortunately can't support my local shop due to past experiences.

[flydiver]

www.bphobbies.com/
www.hobbypeople.net/prdcls/propea01.asp
gwsprops.com/

The GWS 10x6 HD is a direct drive prop (thinner). It'll be more efficient but not have as much thrust as the SF type prop (fatter blade). It's good (necessary actually) if you go to 3S lipo. You can go up a bit on that 'type'. Same with APCe (thin electric) if running stock systems.

fly

[jbcub76]

So if I am staying bone stock on everything and need a replacement prop, the GWS SF 10x8 or the Eflite 10x7 w/ prop saver that you use will work fine?

I'm new to all of this so bear with me. lol

[flydiver]

In a nutshell motors have a narrow operating band of efficiency. Too small a prop and the motor isn't working but not doing anything for you. Too big a prop and it's overloaded, heats up, and burns up. More volts makes the prop spin faster. Odd as it may sound this makes it necessary to down size in props to not burn up the motor.

Props fall into 2 'main' categories; 1. slow fly = a fat type of blade designed for lower RPM's and maximum thrust at the expense of speed and efficiency. 2. Direct drive/hyperdrive/thin electric = a slimmer, straighter blade with a stouter hub that is designed for higher RPM's and generally more speed. Since they are thinner they don't work the motor as hard. They provide more speed but generally less thrust.

SF props will literally blow up if spun too fast. Before that they flatten out, distort, sound like hell, and don't work well. APC SF are MUCH stouter than GWS and work better, but cost more.

Both of the props mentioned, will work. So will the APC SF 10x7, and probably the APC 11x7 thin electric.
You know what a prop saver is?

fly

[jbcub76]

Overload, overload, overload!!! ;D Just kidding. This is good info.

I do know what a prop saver is. I have read about dozens of the store-bought type and dozens of the homemade type. What would you recommend?

I guess at this point I want to do little to no modifications to the plane. I have done the cheapy things like tape the wings and such. I don't want to sink alot of money in the plane in case I decide it isn't for me. Doubtful, but you never know. My hobbies change like the weather.

I have not gotten to fly it yet due to weather but thought it might be a good idea to have at least a few props handy for that first flight.

[flydiver]

Well, first thing new fliers do is nose in and at least break the prop. I did. I used to go home with unused batteries when I ran out of props. So, switched to a prop saver. One of those will save a LOT of props and grief. I like this one: www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V504514&pid=V916781
Unfortunately OOS.

fly

[jbcub76]

Thanks flydiver. I'll see if I can track one down.