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Post by s7jstep1 on Oct 9, 2012 22:12:28 GMT 1
im converting my plane (and my dads) to lipo and i was wondering if these 9x6 props would work. i was looking at them because they are cheap and we are both beginners. im ordering my lipo batteries from there as well and i get free shipping on orders over $50 so i was just going to try to order it all at once here is the prop in question www.hobbypartz.com/88e-prop-9x6-grey.html |
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mcom59
Flying officer
Posts: 24
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Post by mcom59 on Oct 10, 2012 1:47:09 GMT 1
Hhmmm.. maybe will do... 9x6 is the prop of choice for SC lp so size should be ok.. only word of caution I have is check if they are suitable for electric flight not IC flight.. the hole in the prop is usually larger to accomodate the IC motor shaft.. I see these props come with a series of bushes for different drive shaft diameters, hopefiully the diameter you need for the SC elec motor drive shaft is included..
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Post by flydiver on Oct 10, 2012 6:36:43 GMT 1
Those are copies of APCe Thin electric. Notice the large hub. They have thin tips and are designed for higher RPM. The PZ stock 9x6 is a slow fly design with a small hub and fatter blades. You will find that 9x6 not very powerful for this application. Better to buy either of these: www.hobbypartz.com/88e-prop-10x5.html (copy of APCe 10x5) www.hobbypartz.com/88e-prop-1060.html (either a real GWS 10x6 or a copy) Either are essentially equivalent to the stock prop. APC makes decent props. GWS thin ( NOT slow fly) are decent props. Copies....I can't make any assurances about. Could be decent, could be poor. I've gotten some cheap copy props from Hobby King, some OK, some lousy. YMMV. |
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Post by s7jstep1 on Oct 10, 2012 7:05:41 GMT 1
oh okay awesome. thanks for the links. ill probably end up going with the 10x6's
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Post by s7jstep1 on Oct 10, 2012 7:53:54 GMT 1
so am i reading that right that the second link is 10 propellers for $4.99?
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Post by flydiver on Oct 10, 2012 16:00:02 GMT 1
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Post by flydiver on Oct 10, 2012 16:16:32 GMT 1
Slow Fly vs. Thin electric or Direct drive Slow Fly have fat blades and small hubs. The design is more RPM limited (they CAN blow up if pushed too hard). The fat blade gives torque but eats a lot of amps. The are designed for slower turning motors. APC are good. GWS are floppy and not much good for anything but a VERY low RPM. TE or DD props have larger hubs and skinnier blades. They are sturdier and designed for more RPMs. They can provide the same thrust as a SF but generally need to be larger in size or be turning faster to do so. Thrust is a function of blade area and RPM. The stock 9x6 is a SF. The recommended alternative GWS 10x6 DD or APCe 10x5 TE are skinny. They use an inch longer blade to make up for the lack of 'fatness' of the stock blade. Newbies break blades all the time and get annoyed with them (I did). I wanted a STRONG blade. When you crash the force has to be absorbed somewhere. If the blade doesn't give > you may take the damage in the shaft, gearbox, motor, or firewall....or all of those. Of course if it's a high speed nose in it doesn't much matter.  A really strong blade can damage things if the prop is still spinning with force even on a landing tip-over. |
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Post by s7jstep1 on Oct 10, 2012 19:09:27 GMT 1
Slow Fly vs. Thin electric or Direct drive Slow Fly have fat blades and small hubs. The design is more RPM limited (they CAN blow up if pushed too hard). The fat blade gives torque but eats a lot of amps. The are designed for slower turning motors. APC are good. GWS are floppy and not much good for anything but a VERY low RPM. TE or DD props have larger hubs and skinnier blades. They are sturdier and designed for more RPMs. They can provide the same thrust as a SF but generally need to be larger in size or be turning faster to do so. Thrust is a function of blade area and RPM. The stock 9x6 is a SF. The recommended alternative GWS 10x6 DD or APCe 10x5 TE are skinny. They use an inch longer blade to make up for the lack of 'fatness' of the stock blade. Newbies break blades all the time and get annoyed with them (I did). I wanted a STRONG blade. When you crash the force has to be absorbed somewhere. If the blade doesn't give > you may take the damage in the shaft, gearbox, motor, or firewall....or all of those. Of course if it's a high speed nose in it doesn't much matter. A really strong blade can damage things if the prop is still spinning with force even on a landing tip-over. i learned that in the rc car world. if all the tranny gears and spur gears are steel, you start breaking more expensive parts like drivelines or even motors. its cheaper and easier to just leave a weak link. ill definately be picking up some of those tools linked |
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Post by s7jstep1 on Oct 18, 2012 3:17:53 GMT 1
The props worked great. I like the fact that they are so cheap that I don't feel bad when I break one. I flew for 40min with dozens of landings and I broke 2 of them. I don't think that's bad for a newby lol.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 18, 2012 5:01:14 GMT 1
Sometimes I went home out of props when I still had batteries. I finally figured out what prop savers were and put one on. But that's a less viable option as they are less stable and the Cub has more power now with lipo. Most folks will have more grief trying to figure out how to fit a prop saver than breaking props.
Glad they worked OK. In the big picture, props are cheap.
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Post by s7jstep1 on Oct 19, 2012 8:12:41 GMT 1
haha ill definately be getting some more until i get better. my problem came on my landings. it was a little breezy out too so that didnt help.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 19, 2012 16:32:19 GMT 1
Get some 3" wheels. Tip-over breakage is common and the small tires are about impossible to land well on rough ground or grass.
Learning to chop the throttle at the right moment helps a lot too.
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