will this motor work well with

[laserman]

the super cub a bell out runner bm 2409 -12 brushless motor with a 30 amp speed controller that i got off of ebay for 2.99 for both yes that is right 2.99 for the motor and controller, and 10$ shipping

[duck9191]

do you have any specs? or a link to the auction, then we might be able to help better.

[hack73]

Looks like a good motor:

Specs:
- Dimensions (mm) 31 x 62
- Weight (g) 65
- Voltage (V) 10
- Idle Current(A) 1.7
- Current: 8.2A/12.7A
- Battery 3-4 Lipo
- rpm/v(Kv) 1600
- Shaft size (mm) 3.0
- Max efficient current (A) 23
- Max Efficiency (%) 66
- Max PRM (r/min) 10600
- Max Loaded Current (A/60s) 25
- Max Power (W/60s) 200
- Recommended Working Currency: 7A - 20A ( Efficiency higher than 75% )
- PROPELLER: 8X4APC/9X4.5APC

Recommended Applications:

3 cell Lipo: APC 8X4SF 11100RPM 10V 20A Thrust 805 gram ( Air pressure 76mmHg/25
degree)

3 cell lipo: 9X4.5APC-E 9900RPM 10V 23.8A Thrust 960 gram ( Air pressure 76mmHg/25
degree)

[rcairplanepilot]

hi, im useing that motor on a EZ*, it honks it on too,LOL. in fact,when the new wears off my Super Cub thats the motor ill most likey use on it ;D

[flydiver]

That's kind of a high KV motor. Looks to take 3S to wake it up and requires a med. size prop. What are you going to run it with? It's workable but wouldn't be my first choice even if it was cheap.

fly

[rcairplanepilot]

hi, ok the "new" wore off,LOL, so i just put one on my cub with a 7x5 prop, scoots along mighty fine, sure theres better motors around, this ones "CHEAP", im happy with it considering i paid about 10 bucks for it a few months ago, its held up fine too. i use 3S, and 8 an 9 cell packs, just like when i had it in my EZ*, plenty of power for me

[a74charger]

I use a 1050kv outrunner, 2200mAh, 10*8e-flight prop. not very scale like, BUT,,,,, unlimited vertical!!

Rpm(Kv): 1050Rpm/V
Max Currect: 30A
Max Eff: 98%
Current Capacity: 32 / 60s
No Load Current: 0.8 A
Dimensions: Diameter 28.2mm x Length 39mm
Shaft Diameter: 2.97mm
Recommended Planes Weight:
550 - 1400g / 19 - 50oz
Recommended Input Voltage:
2 - 4 cells, 7.4 - 14.8v (Li-polymer)
6 - 12, 7.2 - 14.4v (NiCD)
Recommended Propeller:
8 x 4 to 13 x 6
Max Current: 30A
Max Eff: 98%
Max Watt: 280w / 11.1v
Weight: only 84g

[mikejbb]

I noticed flydiver said something about the kv being kinda high. Also that a74charger used the kv as the describer of the motor. What do these numbers mean in terms of power. I suppose its beyond my understanding, but I do get basic electricity. I just ordered the motor below, which is mentioned here a few times, for $10 at hobbycitry so it'll be awhile, but I'd still like to understand for future reference.

I also have a 2400mAh lipo, 18a esc and 9gm micro servo's coming. I borrowed a futaba 4ch tx and fp-r127df receiver, and I've looked at most all the posts here and my 2nd ? is how to hook up the lipo to the receiver? I think the lipo attaches to the esc, ok. But when I tested the receiver, I had to attach the receiver's battery (also borrowed) to the receiver. So how does the lipo get connected to the receiver so only the lipo is needed? Or mayby not possible, or a battery eliminator, bec? I saw some posts re bec, but didn't understand.
Thanks for any understanding.

Brushless Outrunner TowerPro2409-18 1000kv / 180W

TowerPro Brushless Outrunner TP2409-18

Model: 2409-18
Weight: 70g
Voltage: 10v (2~3 Cell lipo pack)
Idle Current: .9
Kv: 1000
Shaft: 3mm Diameter
Max efficient current: 15.5A
Max Load: 20A
Max Power Output:180W
Suggested Propeller: 8*.3.8 or 8*6 GWS Hyper Drive

[flydiver]

K-1000, V=Volts > so you get RPM in thousands/volt. Higher KV motors will turn faster. Electric motors have a narrow optimal operating range so you have to tune the load (prop) to the battery (volts). High KV motors swing small props fast, low KV motors swing larger props more slowly.

As a general rule slow flying planes work better with larger props turning more slowly. Think big V-8 turning slow, vs. small 4-cylinder thrashing fast.

In both cases there is still motor SIZE. A larger motor will be more powerful than a smaller one so every thing gets scaled up (or down).

So---you have a 3S lipo (think 10v) on a 15.5A motor. If you prop it right you will be close to the 18A ESC. At full throttle you could be over. Only way to tell for sure is to hook a wattmeter up to it and test. DO NOT believe the specs the Chinese give. They are often exaggerated. In addition if you got the ESC from them the 18A ESC is more likely 10-12A. A lot of grief comes from fliers believing this stuff like it came from the US.

THERE ARE NO RULES IN CHINA. THEY CAN CLAIM WHATEVER THEY WANT AND THERE IS NO ONE BUT US FLIERS TO DISPUTE THEM. You bought it because it was cheap-buyer beware. or should I say BE AWARE. ;D

Heres a link for motor/ESC/RX hookup.
www.gwsus.com/english/product/speedcontroller/600.htm
It shows a brushed but brushless is the same except for 3 wires to the motor. Hook those up any way you want. If the motor runs backward switch any 2 motor wires (yeah, that's right).

BEC is battery eliminator circuit and built into your ESC. The ESC sorts out the power to the various components. You'll know when you need a separate BEC. If you have to ask, you don't.

Lose the tamiya connectors and learn to solder.

fly

[mikejbb]

flydriver, thanks very much for the KV explaination. I never expected it to relate to rpms. Cool! I'm gonna go find my old monster vom, it should be able to handle the 20A, my radio shack only handles 10A unfused.

I'll be soldering on deans connectors per this site.

Now for a point of clarification. I checked out the GSW hookup and it all is fine for the battery to the esc and the motor to the esc. However, and this is my ignorance talking, I think there needs to me 2 sets of 3 wires to go to the receiver. One set to connect to the throttle control of the receiver (#3) and one set to power the receiver (#B). The image only shows one set in the wiring diagram and the related esc photos of the front & back of the circuit board. So does this mean I have to power the receiver with it's own seperate different battery or am I missing something?

I really appreciate you spending your time on my questions.

Mike

[s3etigohide]

The one connection does both. The batt port on the rx would be used if cases like nitro engines, or an external BEC.

[flydiver]

Power plugs into the ESC. ESC throttle wire goes to the RX where it also provides current for the RX. If there is no motor so no ESC or you need a separate battery pack since you don't need motor power you can use an external RX pack and plug it into the port on the RX just for that. This is a LOW volt (5v), generally small pack since it doesn't have motor drain.

High volt systems (4S and larger) use a separate battery pack also with the main battery running just the motor.

The ESC has to take power voltage down to ~5v to power the servos and RX. It makes heat to do this. More volts > more heat so weird as it may sound more voltage can actually power less servos or heat build up would be excessive. Look at ESC specs and notice how the number of servos handled goes down as the volts go up. Generally you are told to use a separate BEC with 4S or more, or more than 3S and 4 servos.

fly

[mikejbb]

AHhhhh....

Thanks guys, now I'm feeling that I have a reasonable chance of getting this to work. Hope I don't burn it up first flight. I'll test it on the ground first.

Thanks again
Mike

[flydiver]

mikejbb said:

Thanks guys, now I'm feeling that I have a reasonable chance of getting this to work.
Mike

Good link for lots of info:
www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/index.shtml

This is from Jeff at HeadsUp (good source)
cgi.ebay.com/2409-18T-Outrunner-Brushless-Electric-Motor_W0QQitemZ220185041603QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34056QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

>>If you're looking for 3D performance, try the 2409-18T with the APC 10x3.8SF prop! This makes it a good choice for the larger slow fliers as well. This motor works great on the GWS Slow Stick, but be sure to use a low pitch prop to keep the speed down, or you're likely to rip the wings off!!!

In the past, I've recommended a 30 amp ESC for this motor, but I've found that my new 20 amp ESC works just fine.<<

Jeff does push the power envelope a bit I think. Start with a slightly smaller prop, bench test at WOT for 30 seconds, and hand test (unless you have a wattmeter). Too hot to touch is too much prop. Only warm and you can prop up a bit.

fly