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Post by gp4u2nv on Aug 21, 2011 15:27:01 GMT 1
Quick and to the point.
I have older super cub. It has a NiMH battery. The spec's are:
Type: NiMH
Capacity: 1000 mAh
Number of Cells: 7
Voltage: 8.4v
Connector: Hobbyzone White Mini
Weight: 5.2 oz
Dimensions: 2.56 x 1.25 x 1.375 in
What is the conversion that sould be done. Please note I have only the charger for this battery (car/wall).
I need another battery just dont want to waste money.
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Post by flydiver on Aug 22, 2011 1:40:24 GMT 1
Another NiMh or do you want to go lipo?
There are decent reasons for going either way.
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nightflyer
Flight lieutenant
Be like Nike... Just do it
Posts: 40
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Post by nightflyer on Aug 22, 2011 6:50:51 GMT 1
Im just curious, what are the advantages NiMh batteries have as opposed to LiPo's?
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Post by gp4u2nv on Aug 22, 2011 22:28:35 GMT 1
I guess if there are pro's to both I would like to hear the pro's.
Maybe the con's also.
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Post by toff on Aug 22, 2011 23:03:32 GMT 1
Nihm - pros- Don't have to balance, can run down to zero, and just re-charge.
Cons- Not as powerful as lipos and far heavier!
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Post by flydiver on Aug 22, 2011 23:46:13 GMT 1
For you: NiMh (along with above) Pro You have the charger. Minimal purchase-just a new battery Familiar technology. No additional learning. If you go lipo you WILL have a LONG learning curve and you WILL ruin a half-dozen of them, some by crashing, some by screwing up during charging and discharging. I guarantee it. Safer-will not (in all probability), start a fire and burn your house or field down. Yes, it does happen. Not common but nasty when it does. Steel can > difficult to damage in a crash. Lipos dent and damage easily by comparison, up to and including catch on fire. I've personally seen it. OK Cubbers-fess up, how many lipos did YOU ruin with crashes and before you figured out how to take care of them? Be honest. Have you figured them out yet? Con: Mostly what toff said. You need to be careful about what you buy and where from since you may get old stock that could be over the hill. I learned this the hard way. See below. NiMh are starting to gather dust on shelves for RC use. They DO self discharge-that's normal for NiMh. If you get very old stock that has gone dead you might end up with a bad pack. If you go lipo, and you WILL go lipo if you stay with the sport, you will need to be aware of their safety issues as well as their advantages. You will have a lot of learning to do and some additional very confusing purchases to make. Lipo battery, lipo chargers and lipo use/concerns/storage/confusion/opinions etc. are absolutely one of the hottest topics in RC. There is no shortage of opinions and there is a real dearth of irrefutable facts. Important note: (toff I told you to look this stuff up) You absolutely do NOT want to run a NiMH or ANY NiXX PACK down to zero. See link below. First-with an ESC in place you won't be able to, and if you could you'd end up with a dead plane. You CAN tree it and run it dead that way, same for lipo. 2nd - Every chain has a weak link. In a PACK one cell will be weakest. It will run down first. When it goes to zero and you keep asking juice from it the pack runs electrons the WRONG WAY THROUGH THE DEAD CELL. This causes chemical changes and can permanently ruin a pack in a single event. In a good pack you may get away with this without much damage-but, damage is done. Do it often and it will kill it for sure. Do that to a lipo and it pretty much is toast. Sure, people recover them but IMO it is now a potential fire hazard. It IS damaged and could be severely damaged. It's just now worth the risk to use it. Lipos are too cheap now. A recovered NiHh won't be a bomb, just a little more lame. For those that think MEMORY EFFECT is a big deal with NiXX and you need to discharge to zero to keep them working right you should read this: Dan's Quick Guide to Memory Effect, You Idiots |
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Post by iflyforfun on Aug 23, 2011 2:43:29 GMT 1
I will fess up!!!! I've only had 1 lipo go bad after overdischarging it. All my lipos are Turnigy and Flightmaxx from HK and I have quite a few!!! The only reason I have not destroyed more lipos is because Flydiver was kind enough to lead me in the right direction and I'm also a person who wants to know WHY thing work the way they do!!! Fly is right, there is a load of s..t that has to be learned with lipos, but if you want to stick with this hobby then its the way to go!!!! Take it one step at a time and first learn the saftey precautions.
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Post by ginginho on Aug 23, 2011 12:39:37 GMT 1
OK Cubbers-fess up, how many lipos did YOU ruin with crashes and before you figured out how to take care of them? Be honest. Have you figured them out yet? OK fessing time. TBH, I've only damaged one pack due to connecting a motor on a test bed to the wrong output on a Rx after playing with the program card (motors do not like being connected to the flaps port!) which resulted in a motor, esc, Rx, block of wood and LIPO pack bouncing around my workshop.  I honestly have not damaged any due to over dis-charge, mainly due to reading a lot of information before venturing into the LIPO world.  I purchased a pack tester with my first packs and use it regularly whilst flying to a timer. I swap the pack out even if it's sitting at 3.8x V and never try to "squeeze" a couple more minutes out of a pack, there's no point when I have another fresh pack ready to go! I also only buy LM packs as I know the quality of these at a price point that is suitable. Perhaps this is where a lot go wrong in that they only have one (or two) packs, and to get their full flying fix attempt to get the maximum time out of a pack, putting it in danger of over-discharge. Cheap EBay packs (Mystery etc. that mates have tried) seem to be a lot more susceptible to this, their quality/capacity is obviously dubious at best.  |
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Post by gp4u2nv on Aug 23, 2011 22:23:12 GMT 1
Wow, Thanks......
that is information tht I was looking for.
I think that I will stay in the NiXX world until I learn to fly constantly. Then Ill switch.
Hell, I might go back to fuel.
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Post by flydiver on Aug 23, 2011 23:28:14 GMT 1
OK, then check these guys out and maybe go for the 8-cell (you can get 7-cell also). You'll get more power and learn to hate the battery box like a normal Cubber. www.cheapbatterypacks.com/Or this might do you: www.batteryspace.com/One-8.4V-1600mAh-with-Female-Dean-Connector-for-Wing-Dragon-HL.aspxBe sure to check dimensions AND connectors before purchasing. Different connectors are a nuisance in this sport and something you have to learn to deal with. Soldering skills are necessary. Good = Deans, EC3, XT60, and Anderson Power Poles Funky = Tamiya (probably what you have now) |
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Post by gp4u2nv on Aug 24, 2011 15:26:26 GMT 1
Soldering skills are necessary. Good = Deans, EC3, XT60, and Anderson Power Poles Funky = Tamiya (probably what you have now) I got skills with soldering..... |
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Post by flydiver on Aug 24, 2011 16:39:19 GMT 1
Very good. It's often a stumbling block for new fliers crossing over into the battery/connector area. It was for me. My soldering ability was crude at best. If you do have Tamiya connectors (white ones) I suggest you use this opportunity to switch. They DO become loose, and WILL lose a connection on you sometime. It happened to me  |
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Post by gp4u2nv on Aug 24, 2011 22:22:14 GMT 1
I have what they called "hobbyzone" connectors.
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