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Post by travk1234 on Sept 5, 2010 22:17:33 GMT 1
What is your complete setup?
I am looking for
1. Brushless motor
2. ESC
3. Prop
4. Servos
5. LiPos
5. whatever else i may need
I am planning on getting a Spektrum TX/RX 6 channel setup. What is your setup that works, I want to avoid buying new parts for awhile, and something that I can swap when I get another plane.
This is what I am thinking of buying
TR35-36C-1100 - TR 35-36C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner
HXT-C35-36 - HXT Motor Mount for 35-36 size motor
TGS10x7E - TGS Sport 10x7E Precision propeller
9103MG - 9103MG Metal Gear Servo 4.4g / 0.8kg / ..
HK-SS50A - Hobbyking SS Series 40-50A ESC
Z22003S20C - ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 9, 2010 22:53:35 GMT 1
Do you want to just copy another persons setup? Or would you like to know why we picked the parts we did? I could give you a list of my upgrade parts(I don't have a problem doing that) but how do you know if I have matched my motor,ESC BEC and battery correctly? A few of the veterans in this club will tell you that a 35-36C is too overpowered for the Cub. I disagree with them but am basing my opinion of that motor on mathematical calculations only. I have no flight experience with a 35-36C!!!!! YET. (I have one on order). If you want to fly with a good setup and not care about how and why it all works together then I would reconsider the 35-36C. There is no doubt that with that motor you will be pushing the limits of Structure,weight, balance and a bunch of other factors. There is a guy on youtube who clocked his SC doing 77MPH with a 35-36 motor  . You mentioned just a few days ago that you are breaking your motor mounts!!!! ( I think at least 2 )We all make mistakes flying and crash one in a while but your post leads me to believe that you may not be ready for the brute force of something like the 35-36C. That beast will produce so much force on take off(this is technically called P-Factor) that you need to be good at flying to handle it. I have been reading,reading,reading and re-reading almost every thread on this club and it seems to me a very popular motor is the Turnigy 35-30. I have no experience with that motor. YET (also have one of those on order) ;D So, lets sum this up, 1.What kind of performance are you looking for? 2.Do you want to plug and forget? 3.What future mods have you considered doing? 4.What mods have you completed? If you want plug and forget then answer the questions above and I'm sure that someone with a good stable Brushless setup with lots of hours running that setup will be more than happy to help you!! Ifly |
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Post by leisureshoot on Sept 10, 2010 5:00:57 GMT 1
Here's mine. It is a brushless upgrade, but only a little more powerful than the original motor. SuperTigre 370 motor - 125 watt - 1000 KV - 3mm shaft *SuperTigre 20A brushless ESC 3mm aluminum prop adapter 9 x 6 APC or HobbyZone Super Cub/P51 prop stock 1100 mAh 11.1V 3C battery I may swap up to the 400 sized - 145 watt motor, as it his the same size mounts, only longer. According to a volt/amp/watt calculator web page I found, this should pull approx 13 amps. I generally fly it in the 2/3 throttle range or less with this setup and have no complaints. It is almost 1:1 thrust to weight. I can hold the fuselage gently and it will nearly hold itself up. While it is not overpowered by any stretch, it is strong enough to pull itself out of nearly any trouble.  Because the motor has a 3 sided mount, rather than the more standard 4 sided mount, I haven;t seen a commercial, drop-in SC mount. *The low voltage cut-off for the motor is pretty low (67%) on this ESC, which takes the batteries below 3.0 volts. So, I would recommend looking for a better one, or keep careful management of your voltage when flying. |
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Post by leisureshoot on Sept 10, 2010 5:34:59 GMT 1
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Post by toff on Sept 10, 2010 7:15:34 GMT 1
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 10, 2010 9:07:23 GMT 1
I ordered that mount and had it in 3 days!!! Fantastic fit! I actually ordered it for the 35-36c that I'm still waiting for from HK but used it with the Alpha 480 Brushless that was delivered first. The finish and fit are top notch!!! If I remember correctly I think Dillzio is also using this mount with a 35-30 and just completed his successful maiden flight. It seems the mount can fit a wide variety of motors outside of what it is advertised for. IMO, it is well worth the $20.00 bucks. O,ya. I think I have been referring to this as the Dillzio Mount ;D Ifly |
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 10, 2010 9:15:11 GMT 1
*The low voltage cut-off for the motor is pretty low (67%) on this ESC, which takes the batteries below 3.0 volts. So, I would recommend looking for a better one, or keep careful management of your voltage when flying. Is it not possible to program the low voltage cut-off a little higher? Ifly |
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Post by leisureshoot on Sept 10, 2010 13:59:23 GMT 1
*The low voltage cut-off for the motor is pretty low (67%) on this ESC, which takes the batteries below 3.0 volts. So, I would recommend looking for a better one, or keep careful management of your voltage when flying. Is it not possible to program the low voltage cut-off a little higher? Ifly I don't think it is programmable. I've sent an email to the company, inquiring about the possibility, and asking why that number was chosen. |
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Post by flydiver on Sept 10, 2010 17:02:19 GMT 1
Good luck on that. That low setting is left over from the brushed days. The setting is hard coded in the 'chip' and many ESC manuf. use that or similar chips so have the same basic settings. There are almost NO brushed ESC that have a good lipo friendly LVC.
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 10, 2010 17:21:01 GMT 1
Hello Flydiver, I bought one of these: www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1459/Lipo-Battery-Tester-for/DetailLast week after flying I was checking my batteries after each flight to see how many volts were left and one of them read 2.57,2.60, 2.55 V in the 3 cells. I packed it away and continued to fly but was a little worried that my charger would not recognize the battery when Trying to charg it later.(I've read the links you've posted refering to this problem). Before I set up to charge the batteries a few hours later I check that same battery again and the voltage on all 3 cells were over 3V. I am a little confused as to why that happened. I have a programable ESC and can change the LVC but wonder if I need to? After the flight that battery was very slightly warm but not hot. I've read that you should not let any cell get lower that 3.0V. When is a good time to measure this? Right after a flight? Thanks for the Help Ifly |
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Post by leisureshoot on Sept 10, 2010 20:10:25 GMT 1
Well, they responded, (rather quickly, I might add) that LiPo's are safe down to 2.5 volts and that because they go from 3.0 to 2.5 quickly, that 3.0 is just a safety margin. Sounds contrary to everything I've read here or anywhere else. and don't some chargers refuse to charge batteries that are as low as 2.5V ? Anyway, if I have battery go bad, I'll get a replacement ESC from headsuprc.com They have a programmable 20A for $18. In the mean time, I'll just keep an eye on my batteries. Since I have 2, I can be pretty conservative. ETA: I have this combo in mind, if I switch out:
Power 400 - 1050K - 32 ounce thrust with GWS 9x5 prop, pulling 15 anps www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1519/Power-Up-400-Sport/Detail 20 A Power Up brushless ESC (up to 25 surge) www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1413/POWER-UP--20A/Detail |
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Post by iflyforfun on Sept 11, 2010 0:38:52 GMT 1
Sounds contrary to everything I've here or anywhere else. and don't some chargers refuse to charge batteries that are as low as 2.5V ? I'm with you on that thought!! I'm sure you read my question to Flydiver about this issue. I'm interested to see if he sheds some light on my confusion!! |
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Post by leisureshoot on Sept 11, 2010 14:17:17 GMT 1
For $18 shipped, I couldn't pass up that motor from above, just to try it out.
Fortunately, I have another gearbox that I broke when I first started flying, so I can make a second motor mount, so everything should remain interchangeable with just a swap of the plugs.
I also ordered some Deans plugs and wire from headsuprc.com last week that just arrived. I moved my ESC to the front, mounted under the motor mount with Velcro. It really is nice to do a clean, professional job, when you have the right equipment. With their $2 shipping, I can't help but order something every week, it seems.
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Post by leisureshoot on Sept 11, 2010 14:29:39 GMT 1
Alternatively, I may go with this motor mount. Looks like a nice set-up. This is from headsup, but I assume this is the same motor mount everyone sells on ebay and other rc hobby sites. It's 19.99+2 shipping. Is it less anywhere else?  |
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Post by flydiver on Sept 11, 2010 17:18:16 GMT 1
Hello Flydiver, I bought one of these: www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1459/Lipo-Battery-Tester-for/DetailLast week after flying I was checking my batteries after each flight to see how many volts were left and one of them read 2.57,2.60, 2.55 V in the 3 cells. I packed it away and continued to fly but was a little worried that my charger would not recognize the battery when Trying to charg it later.(I've read the links you've posted refering to this problem). Before I set up to charge the batteries a few hours later I check that same battery again and the voltage on all 3 cells were over 3V. I am a little confused as to why that happened. I have a programable ESC and can change the LVC but wonder if I need to? After the flight that battery was very slightly warm but not hot. I've read that you should not let any cell get lower that 3.0V. When is a good time to measure this? Right after a flight? Thanks for the Help Ifly ] Start kissing your lipos good-bye. ALL types of rechargeable cells have voltage 'sag' under load. The amount varies depending on the load, the quality/ size/history/use of the battery. When you remove the load the battery 'rebounds' to a higher voltage. If you run a NiXX until it is DEAD, then leave it alone awhile it will show almost 'full voltage'. But there is not really anything there anymore. Lipos do the same but not as dramatically. OLD (like 5C lipos) would handle voltages below 3.0v. No one wants those anymore-low performing. The newer generations of high C high performance lipos hold their voltage well until they are almost dry, then just DROP! The OLD drop used to be around 3.0v. The NEW drop is more like 3.5-3.7. Check out this graph: LVC - Low LVC Damages High C LiPolys !!! www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4904168&postcount=1This shows the bounce back: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10981333&postcount=1Anything on batteries you find from [everydayflyer] is good info. You don't have to have a hot battery to damage it. Just hook it up to a small 12v light bulb and leave it for awhile. It'll stay nice and cool and end up dead never the less. HOT is an indication of asking too much amperage. Over discharge is a separate issue. Do them both together for extra damage. Are the manufacturers right? I absolutely don't believe a good majority of them. You can decide for your self. |
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. You mentioned just a few days ago that you are breaking your motor mounts!!!! ( I think at least 2 )We all make mistakes flying and crash one in a while but your post leads me to believe that you may not be ready for the brute force of something like the 35-36C. That beast will produce so much force on take off(this is technically called P-Factor) that you need to be good at flying to handle it.
