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Post by jskirwin on Jul 18, 2010 22:41:54 GMT 1
I've ripped out my stock electronics and motor, and I think I have all the pieces I need (with the exception of a few wire connectors - there's always something). Now what? Here a Visio diagram of the parts along with their wire colors and connectors. Note that white is light grey, and the thickness of the lines corresponds to the thickness of the wires. Kinda.  Looking at the connections, I think this makes sense:  Is this right? The three wires coming out of one end of the ESC are all black, and the wires on the brushless motor have been wrapped in black sheaths, so I can't tell which color is which. Does it matter? And what do I do with the loop connector that came with the radio receiver? |
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Post by SCC on Jul 18, 2010 23:54:43 GMT 1
Hi. Your ESC should plug into channel one, this is your throttle channel. I use JR receiver. Channel 2 is for Aileron this is where your rudder servo should go and channel 3 will be for your elevator. The motor wires. Just connect them, if your motor spins the wrong way just swap any two of the wires and all will be OK. As for the loop connector, I'm not sure what that is.  |
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Post by jskirwin on Jul 19, 2010 1:23:57 GMT 1
Thanks for the corrections.
So the receiver gets its power from Channel 1 to drive the servos? (Battery to ESC to Receiver to Servos)
And what are the gold connectors called that came with the engine? I need to get some of those to connect the ESC to the battery.
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Post by killioughtta on Jul 19, 2010 2:36:50 GMT 1
The loop connector is actually a Bind Plug. You MUST follow the instructions that came with your radio. The Tx and Rx must be bound to eachother with this plug. And what are the gold connectors called that came with the engine? I need to get some of those to connect the ESC to the battery. No no! Do not use the gold connectors for the battery. Use a battery connector like Deans T-connectors, EC3 plugs or XT60s. |
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Post by Dillzio on Jul 19, 2010 6:30:51 GMT 1
Thanks for the corrections. So the receiver gets its power from Channel 1 to drive the servos? (Battery to ESC to Receiver to Servos) And what are the gold connectors called that came with the engine? I need to get some of those to connect the ESC to the battery. The receiver gets power form ANY of the red/black wires on the servo-type connectors that plug into it. If you are using the BEC that is built into your ESC, it will be getting power from the red and black wires in channel 3. If you are using a separate BEC to power the receiver, or a separate battery, it will get the power from the 'batt' port. Alternatively, instead of using the batt port you could plug them into ANY spare channel you had. The gold connectors that come with the motor are called bullet connectors, they are for connecting the ESC to the motor. For a 'normal' mode 2 radio, Channel 1 is ailerons Channel 2 is elevator Channel 3 is motor/ESC channel 4 is rudder Hope this helps  |
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Post by SCC on Jul 19, 2010 11:24:34 GMT 1
Dillz is correct. Ch3 on Futaba, Hitec and others is used for throttl. I should of remembered that as I used Futaba for a couple of years  whats the make of your Rx? Cheers Paul |
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Post by jskirwin on Jul 20, 2010 3:27:54 GMT 1
Rx is HobbyKing generic 6 channel, HG-T6A V2.
Oh, and I picked up some XT60s from eBay. I'm feeling a lot more comfortable with this build than I was before I posted. Thanks for all the help! ;D
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Post by ginginho on Jul 20, 2010 13:19:19 GMT 1
Rx is HobbyKing generic 6 channel, HG-T6A V2. Oh, and I picked up some XT60s from eBay. I'm feeling a lot more comfortable with this build than I was before I posted. Thanks for all the help! ;D Just make sure that your control surfaces move in the correct directions before you attempt the first flight following the change out (see my avatar as to what happens if the elevator is reversed). |
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Post by jskirwin on Jul 21, 2010 16:38:56 GMT 1
Shouldn't the Rx require a battery? I bought the HK-T6A V2 package that comes with radio and HK-TR6A v2 Rx. Yet another thing I didn't buy...  |
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Post by ginginho on Jul 21, 2010 17:28:49 GMT 1
Shouldn't the Rx require a battery? I bought the HK-T6A V2 package that comes with radio and HK-TR6A v2 Rx. Yet another thing I didn't buy... It depends if your ESC has a BEC (battery elimination Circuit), if so it'll provide power for your Rx. If you are likely to run more than two servos (e.g. ailerons) try to get an ESC that has a BEC that is switched and 3amps, normally a 40A+ ESC. |
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Post by jskirwin on Jul 21, 2010 19:04:58 GMT 1
Looks like it does...
Weight: 22g
Size: 24x52x6mm
Cells: 2-3S (Auto Detect)
Max Current: 25A
Burst: 30A
BEC: 3A
Whew...
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Post by jskirwin on Jul 25, 2010 3:47:46 GMT 1
Update:
So I got everything working thanks to everyone's help on this thread. The brushless motor I used, the eMax BL2215/20 really puts out the power. Took the plane outside and let my son - who is more experienced than me - at the controls. We did a range test, then I launched the plane level. It banked to the right and crashed with no damage.
Then the Idiot Inside me took over, and I launched the thing as I hard as I could at about a 60 degree angle. $200 of electronics inside a beaten up foam body became a giant lawn dart.
Broke the prop in two places. Broke one side of struts. Tail broke (again - at a different place). Even smashed the bottom of the firewall.
This was completely my fault but amazingly enough all the new parts survived. The motor is fine and the prop shaft doesn't appear bent. Servos were jarred loose but are intact. ESC, receiver and battery all okay. Amazing.
I've gorilla-glued everything back and need to make sure that I have the elevator set right on the transmitter. Aside from my causing a stall, my son said that he thought the elevator was reversed.
Ginginho, I should have listened!
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Post by shesbreakingup on Jul 26, 2010 0:46:33 GMT 1
All brushless conversions I have seen so far including my own add weight to the lower left of the fuselage. If you were sitting in the plane looking out imagine the weight on the lower left outside firewall. I have seen pics of three 1/4 oz weights for a total of 3/4 oz attached there at minimum. I did a weight comparison and was astonished how much weight I had to add to my nose so I machined my own mount and added weight through a steel structure and it weighs the same. Maybe it just torqued over when he nailed it.
Maybe try a rolling launch ease into the throttle. Check your expo and see if they're a little too touchy.
Plus, I weighed my old motor gearbox and made my brushless setup with mount weigh the same. Check that too. Classic tail heavy and torque over stall.
Cubs are pretty darn forgiving so no need to apply nuclear physics to get everything exactly perfect. Just check into doing the counterweights to offset torque, get the nose heavy again like it was check your expo, then try to launch from the ground and I bet you'll be thrilled. Mine is a wicked little beast and yours is too. Just get those pesky bugs worked out.
Looking at the plane head on the prop spins counter clockwise throwing torque in the opposite direction which is why I am saying this about the stall.
Good luck my friend! Get us a u-tube video when she's right!
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