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Post by gorillasooner on Jul 3, 2010 4:19:38 GMT 1
Hey Guys, anyone feel free to answer, but I've seen Dillzio answer this question before so I just thought I would specify him so he sees this.
What brushless ESC/Motor/Servos setup do you recommend for the super cub with the stock battery. I have 5 batteries and my receiver went out on one of my 2 super cubs so I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade. I've got the Tx/Rx, I just need advice on the ESC/Motor/Servos. Thanks!
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Post by killioughtta on Jul 3, 2010 6:26:25 GMT 1
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Post by gorillasooner on Jul 3, 2010 7:18:01 GMT 1
Hey Thanks!
Does that mount really fit, or should I get one of the ones off ebay for $20?
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Post by Dillzio on Jul 3, 2010 8:09:50 GMT 1
Wow, a special mention in the thread title, don't I feel special!  This is the setup I've gone with. Turnigy 35-30 motor: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3883The 35-36 will have a bit more power and probably give you unlimited vertical. If you want to use stock batteries you'll want something smaller than the one I chose, I had my eye on this one for a while: cgi.ebay.com.au/Emax-30A-Airplane-Brushless-Motor-1200Kv-BL2215-20-F211-/180521438713?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a07ea8df9Otherwise get one of the 28mm sized Turnigys, which are probably just as good (or better) and cheaper: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2112. Anodised aluminium motor mount: cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250591252393&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:ITThis works great with the 35-30, a master airscrew prop will clear the cowl by about 1mm, I'll just add a single washer behind the prop for a little more clearance. Corona servos, seem to work great BTW: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=103442200mah 20C Flightmax batteries: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6306Hobbywing 30A ESC: cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200468520857&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:ITESC programming card to make life easy: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2169Battery Eliminator Circuit: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10312Although I've heard that the one I got can barely put out 3A, this one would probably be better: www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3735&Product_Name=HXT_UBEC_5/6v_output,_5.5~23v_Input I like Master Airscrew props because they're not as breakable as GWS or APC. I've clocked the 9x6 at 18.3 amps, the 9x7 at 20 amps, and I also have some 9x5s I haven't tested yet. All these props are viable choices for a 1100kv motor, they will just get you different power levels and flight times. The most time consuming parts of my build have been the iron on covering film, and the navlights. Without them I think the build would have been pretty easy. I've used the same Corona servos for the elevator and rudder, even though they're a little too small for the mounting holes. To make them a tight fit, I added a couple of cut-down popsicle sticks on the back of the servos, and one layer of double sided tape. I kept the covering layer on the double sided tape so it only stuck on the servo side, the tape was just used for a bit of padding. I also used a layer of double sided tape as padding between the servos. With this arrangement, the servos are a really tight fit and won't budge. Even though they probably didn't need it, being such a tight fit, I stuck them down with double sided tape too. This is the actual order I put through. I had to cancel the ESC and the motor's spare accessories pack though because they'd been on backorder for so long, glad I did too. The accessories pack is STILL on backorder. CS928BB Corona 928BB Servo 2.0kg/ 9g/ 0.13sec 6 Reserved HK-T6A-M2 Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx & Rx V2 (Mode 2) 1 Reserved FS-L001 Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx USB Cable for Win20 1 Reserved AM2001-15x10 15CM Servo Lead Extention (Futaba) 26AWG (10 1 Reserved F26SL-30x10 30CM Servo Lead Extention (Futaba) 26AWG (10 1 Reserved TR-35-ACC TURNIGY 35-XX series Spare accessory pack 1 Backorder TR35-30C-1100 TR 35-30C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner (Eq AXi 1 Reserved Z22003S20C ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C 4 Reserved MA0950 Master Airscrew propeller 9x5 3 Reserved TR-Wattmeter Turnigy Watt Meter and power Analyzer 1 Reserved LUM-ONF Turnigy Receiver Controlled Switch 1 Reserved SBEC-26V Turnigy 5A (8-26v) SBEC for Lipo 1 Reserved TR_P25A TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller 1 Backorder TR_PC TURNIGY BESC Programming Card 1 Reserved |
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Post by ginginho on Jul 3, 2010 9:19:23 GMT 1
Agreed. The 35-36 would give the SC excessive power that the airframe just wouldn't benefit from. You are also likely to have fun balancing the bird with it, as it's a fair bit heavier. Great motors BTW, I have one in my Gemini, just not suitable for the SC. An alternative to this setup would be to use a Hobbywing 40A ESC as this has a 3A switched BEC built in. Servos : any 9gramme ones will do however if you can source them locally I'd recommend the E-Max ES08A (8.5gramme). They are much more accurate than the Towerpro/HXT equivalent. Many UK fliers are using these as replacements/servo of choice for Hitec HS55 and/or HB65's applications. Dillz, have you used the Corona servos yet in anger or just bench testing? I'd like to know whether my suggestion was a good one, and may consider getting some myself (along with a few of the Spekky compatible Rx's that HK have started doing). |
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Post by Dillzio on Jul 3, 2010 11:41:59 GMT 1
I've just done bench testing really, mounted them in the wings and made sure I've cut out enough foam for the arms to be able to move freely, made sure the ailerons work the right way etc.
I've noticed that with these servos, when you mount the arms, there's a 50/50 chance of them being at right angles with the arms sticking out to the left or the right. Since my ailerons and flaps are on the same channel, I had to find two pairs that matched. Luckily I had three that were 90 degrees on the left and three on the right, so it all worked out beautifully. If I had a couple of odd ones though, I could just use them for the rudder/elevator and set sub trim to make them 90 degrees.
Would you have any tips on how to test the servos under load to see how much power they drain? I'm not too sure about how to put them under the correct amount of load.
I'll have to try and find a light bulb or something that will draw 3A at 5v so I can test out my BEC too.
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Post by Dillzio on Jul 3, 2010 12:29:59 GMT 1
Just came across a 12v car headlight bulb that draws 2.7amps at 5.2volts, so I hooked that up to the BEC to see how it fared. It ended up running the bulb at 2.6 amps, and the voltage dropped down to 4.2 volts. I tried moving the jumper on the BEC to make it run at 6v (which I assume would draw over 3amps), and then it dropped to 3.4 volts! This BEC is rated at 3amps continuous and 5 amps max, which is a load of BS. More like 2 amps constant 3 amps max.
Does anyone know if a voltage drop of 1v is enough to cause the dreaded brown out?
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Post by ginginho on Jul 3, 2010 12:47:26 GMT 1
I've just done bench testing really, mounted them in the wings and made sure I've cut out enough foam for the arms to be able to move freely, made sure the ailerons work the right way etc. I've noticed that with these servos, when you mount the arms, there's a 50/50 chance of them being at right angles with the arms sticking out to the left or the right. Since my ailerons and flaps are on the same channel, I had to find two pairs that matched. Luckily I had three that were 90 degrees on the left and three on the right, so it all worked out beautifully. If I had a couple of odd ones though, I could just use them for the rudder/elevator and set sub trim to make them 90 degrees. Would you have any tips on how to test the servos under load to see how much power they drain? I'm not too sure about how to put them under the correct amount of load. I'll have to try and find a light bulb or something that will draw 3A at 5v so I can test out my BEC too. All servos come like that, the splines are cut offset to allow for an arm to be mounted at 90 degrees one way, or off the other. I normally use a double arm as this can be set to 90 degrees either side, and then just cut off the side I don't need. As for testing servos under load, you could hook up a lightweight fishing spring scales to the arm via a bit of cable/string/wire to check the pull but I don't bother myself. I did get a servo soak tester off a guy who posted in a couple of forums about it, and very handy it is too. A video of how to build it can be seen here , and he's good enough to sell the components (pre programmed chip and a diddy capacitor) at cost for UK based fliers. If you have a way of programming the chip, there are build instructions and the code listed here.The sequence (taken from the build guide) drives the servo left, neutral, right, neutral, sweep left to right, and a couple of slow sweeps end to end... and the whole process is timed to last for an hour, when the exerciser shuts down. It's quite nice to listen to a servo chirping away as you hack some foam for your next model. ;D He's also written some other code for the same kit at the request of other RCMF readers, one I know of is to centre and hold, aiding installation of the servos. |
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Post by ginginho on Jul 3, 2010 12:53:47 GMT 1
Does anyone know if a voltage drop of 1v is enough to cause the dreaded brown out? I don't know what your Rx is like for power drops, brown outs seemed to be fairly specific to Spektrum Rx's as they are quite picky about input voltage. At those voltages though, your servos are likely to move relatively slowly. Try hooking up the bulb and also a RX with a couple of servos connected and do some stick wiggling and compare it to without the bulb. You may see a speed difference in the servos, and (gulp!) possibly the Rx rebooting.  |
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Post by gorillasooner on Jul 3, 2010 17:10:56 GMT 1
Thanks everyone for the advice! Looks like this is definitely a project I can do. I'll let you know how it goes when I get all the parts and put it together! The way I burnt up the stock Rx/ESC was by running 5 batteries through it without giving it a break. My neighbors modified SuperCub ran the same amount of batteries without any probs, but his upgrades were nearly $200 worth... The most time consuming parts of my build have been the iron on covering film, and the navlights. Without them I think the build would have been pretty easy. This parts already done. Here's the plane I'm putting it in, I've already got it coated.  |
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benski
Flying officer
Posts: 10
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Post by benski on Jul 20, 2010 6:44:56 GMT 1
I've got a Super Tigre .10 with a matching 30 amp ESC and am turning an APC 10 X 7 prop. I don't get too much flight time on the stock HZ bat., but it is pretty darn fun!
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Post by flydiver on Jul 20, 2010 7:39:40 GMT 1
Super Tigre .10
kV: 1250
Max. Constant Watts: 320
Weight: 2.4 oz (69 g)
Suggested Props: 10x4.5 to 11x7 electric
Lets call it 250W for argument since the 30a ESC hasn't burned up.
250W/ 11v (for some battery sag-probably optimistic) > 23A, could be 25A easily
Stock battery - 1.3A x 15C = 20A
Result - bye bye lipo after awhile.
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Post by ginginho on Jul 20, 2010 13:15:10 GMT 1
Stock battery - 1.3A x 15C = 20A If you are lucky! I don't believe the stock packs are of the highest quality, and the specs are more than likely to be exaggerated. Result - bye bye lipo after awhile. And you might not have to wait too long for this result if you fly anywhere near WOT for any period of time. |
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Post by shesbreakingup on Jul 23, 2010 19:44:09 GMT 1
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skom80
Flight lieutenant
Posts: 98
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Post by skom80 on Jul 30, 2010 13:32:08 GMT 1
would that motor mount screw right to the stock firewall or would you have to do some mods ? |
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