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Post by martlet on Oct 7, 2008 3:08:38 GMT 1
I've read through this forum and there seems to be a ton of good information here. The problem is, I don't understand any of it.
I flew my SC for the first time last weekend and it was a blast. Unfortunately, I only have the battery that came with it. I was going to buy a few more, perhaps and 8 cell, but everyone seems to say upgrade to Lipo. My problem is I really don't know squat about anything yet. That's why I was just going to buy more packs that were like what came with it.
Is there a detailed explanation, preferably with pictures, on how to change battery types? It seems complicated with changing connectors and props. I'd like to at least look into it more before I dump the money into stock batteries.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 7, 2008 6:21:32 GMT 1
Buy another NiMh, or 2 or 3. Fly a lot, read more. That battery and time spent reading will be $$ well spent. This is NOT a simple sport as it first appears. The amount of information on all the various electronics is staggering and takes months > years to assimilate. The Cub isn't even the tip of the iceberg, it's a grain of sand on the beach. This is a pretty good stating FAQ site: www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/index.shtml
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Post by Ellis on Oct 7, 2008 17:00:44 GMT 1
The Cub isn't even the tip of the iceberg, it's a grain of sand on the beach. How Zen... ;D
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Post by martlet on Oct 9, 2008 13:11:55 GMT 1
I bought the 900 mAh 8 cell at a local hobby store. I then started looking on ebay and cheap batteries, because I remembered seeing a 1400 mAh and 1500 mAh 8 cell. Then someone told me not to use them because my engine will burn out. These batteries won't work in the SC?
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Post by flydiver on Oct 9, 2008 17:06:00 GMT 1
There's volts (cell count) and mAh (capacity). Volts > power mAh > fuel AMOUNT. mAh will NEVER, EVER burn anything up. Think of a normal AAA-cell and a D-cell, both 1.5v but one is tiny the other huge. Both will power the SAME light bulb to the same brightness but the D-cell will last a LOT longer. BUT-it has to FIT in the flashlight. Same idea with the Cub. I've used 7-cell 1400mAh AA type batteries in it but had to rubber band the door closed because it wouldn't fit. A buddy is using a flat 8-cell pack velcro'ed to the outside on the bottom. Weight is another issue. More cells and bigger cells weigh more. Theoretically you could use an 8-cell D pack. Prop would turn great, it wouldn't get off the ground. Or even a car battery (close to 9-cells in volts). Good power, too much weight. You can use 7, 8, and even 9-cells in the Cub. 8 is a snug fit, 9 needs battery box modifications (cut holes to fit). The cell type is called 2/3A (for 2/3 the length of an A cell. Read this: supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?board=batt&action=display&thread=1648Then before you go off and buy really cheap internet batteries check these guys out: www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=673390&pgid=superlisting&type=airplane&manufacturer=16&model=514There really IS a difference between cell quality. Really cheap cells are probably, really cheap. It may not make a difference in the long run if you plan to go lipo soon. That decision is up to you. Keep reading. Every single question you will ask has been asked dozens of times before. fly
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Post by martlet on Oct 9, 2008 20:43:02 GMT 1
Keep reading. Every single question you will ask has been asked dozens of times before. fly Sorry. All this information can be overwhelming.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 9, 2008 20:54:31 GMT 1
Sorry. All this information can be overwhelming. Absolutely agree. I know no way around this but keep plugging at it. It sorts out after awhile. That's why my first suggestion. It's not a criticism, or an admonition, just a suggestion. I only get testy with people too lazy to read or do any work at all. I define that as someone that asks a question when the same question is in the subject line within 3 lines in the forum. Get something that works for you, fly, and keep learning until you are ready for the next step. Don't know about you but I need a little experience to hang my data on. Otherwise raw data doesn't make sense. fly
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Post by martlet on Oct 9, 2008 22:02:19 GMT 1
[ Don't know about you but I need a little experience to hang my data on. Otherwise raw data doesn't make sense. fly Absolutely. I'll just keep plugging away until I get some experience. Thanks again.
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Post by admiralev on Oct 9, 2008 22:34:34 GMT 1
i was the same way. i really wanted to get into lipo but didnt know how. 3 months and 30 flights later and i just ordered my first charger and 2 2200 mah lipos. im still quite liable to screw up, but im learning. fly has an excellent point. i waited, looked around, read reviews, etc and hopefully i make out ok. fly gave me tons of info on lipo upgrades. i have about 10 printed pages of info here if you want them. every question a new guy could ask about lipos is here (i know, i asked ). everyone here would probably tell you i chewed their ear off. what can i say. im curious. i would have to fax them over...too much to scan and email. admiralev
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Post by martlet on Oct 10, 2008 0:23:46 GMT 1
I'd love any information I get. Someone told me today my charger isn't good enough for my batteries, so now I'm researching that, too. It never ends.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 10, 2008 0:51:30 GMT 1
The PZ chargers are adequate as long as they don't croak (usually). The wall wart will do 8-cells (slowly). The DC charger is only good for 7-cells. If they do die, do not replace with PZ chargers (unless really cheap).
Don't be surprised if it takes multiple readings of the same material before it starts to make sense. Sometime understanding won't happen until some other parts are picked up from somewhere else.
Took me months before I began to understand motors/props/batteries and power draw. I studied ESC for 4 months alone. They are a 'black box' very few people really understand.
fly
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Post by admiralev on Oct 10, 2008 1:01:22 GMT 1
if you PM me your phone/fax # i can send them over to you
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Post by martlet on Oct 10, 2008 1:05:14 GMT 1
Good info on the chargers. Someone else had told me to charge the batteries with the wall charger, then hook it up to the DC charger to top it off.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 10, 2008 1:52:04 GMT 1
That's sort of OK info. It indicates a lack of basic understanding though. Expect much of the battery info you get off line go be riddled with partial truths and lots of misunderstanding. Like - you need to discharge NiXX batteries completely to deal with memory effect. BEEEEP!!! Bad information. Not true. But you hear it all the time. Men love saying it is so-proves they know about NiXX batteries. www.dansdata.com/gz011.htmIn your spare time start reading here: www.batteryuniversity.com/partone.htmGo slowly. It'll be overwhelming. Once you've gotten a basic handle on this you can evaluate if someone is giving you good info or just more misinformation. A PROPERLY used wall charger will actually charge your battery better and deeper than a DC charger. BUT, you have to know what it's doing and how to use it. Since most people don't understand WHAT it is doing and HOW it is different, they just use the DC charger since it is 'smart' and the wall wart is 'dumb'. Read the link to figure that out. Lipos are absolutely NOT the same as NiXX. Totally different critters. Had no idea what you were in for, did you? fly
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Post by martlet on Oct 10, 2008 2:06:55 GMT 1
Had no idea what you were in for, did you? fly Nope. I just want to fly my plane as long as I can. I'm off to read while the General watches Grey's Anatomy.
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