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Post by salford1986 on Jul 23, 2008 17:04:48 GMT 1
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duck
Squadron leader
R/C Addict
Posts: 219
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Post by duck on Oct 7, 2008 1:57:30 GMT 1
Lets just bump this a bit.
I too would like to increase my power output, but don't want to have to buy all the stuff for brushless conversion right now. After christmas perhaps, but not now. I don't want to have to buy Lipos yet either. After christmas I will be getting a new plane, and will match the SC to whatever I get at that time.
Meantime I need more power, the old SC is getting kind of heavy, especially when the foamie tires pick up a load of dew off the grass. I could also use a couple of ounces up front for balance.
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Post by flydiver on Oct 7, 2008 2:32:37 GMT 1
The Cub is a 'system'. The electronics are proprietary. That means leave them alone or replace them all.
The brushed motor is just a 480 brushed motor. If you want to put the $$ in to trying some other seemingly high performance brushed motor that still fits in the gearbox you are likely on your own. Everyone goes brushless.
If you want more power with minimal changes your only option is better NiMh batteries (8-cell) or lipo. That's it. If lipo is not your path, then get 8 or 9 cell batteries. 8-cell will fit in the box (barely). 9-cell will require some creative carving. You stock chargers will NOT work and require a new charger anyway....Gotcha says PZ!
I have a post called [boring battery review]. Go find it.
You can't get power for nothing. You gotta pay......
This sport educates you about physics and some about economics if you pay attention.
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duck
Squadron leader
R/C Addict
Posts: 219
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Post by duck on Oct 7, 2008 5:25:34 GMT 1
Thanks I'm already running 8 cells, thought about 9 cells, also thought about 1500 mah batteries. I've never been one to take the easy road, goes against my nature. ;D Swapping out a Tx, Rx servos batteries motor etc, runs better than 300 bucks up here, even for cheap stuff. Shipping, tax and duty make things pretty pricey. It would be cheaper for me to buy an RTF T-28 and gut it for the parts, Little can motors are cheap pocket change items. I wonder how well the ESC can handle two motors.  |
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Post by flydiver on Oct 7, 2008 6:13:32 GMT 1
Upping the mAh only increases time. It's quantity, not increase in power. A better quality battery of similar mAh may give a bit better throughput but not remarkable. To increase power you have to UP power.
Never played with 2 motors. My suspicion is the ESC is pretty much tuned to the system and would not like it let alone HOW to do it. I'm sure there is info available. But then....would the battery handle it? Gets pretty warm just dealing with 1 motor.
Buy used from the groups. Lots of fine stuff for sale, even Canadian occasionally. I recently got a brand new JR7202 for $85 shipped. ESC can be had for $20, RX for same. Used lipos are a bit dicey and you need to be careful, but so are new ones.
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Post by admiralev on Oct 7, 2008 12:48:27 GMT 1
theres a guy on here (jonguillow i think) that mounted a second motor on top of his wing. you could ask him how he did it. check out his video of it in the videos thread. the title is twin engine supercub
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Post by duck9191 on Oct 7, 2008 19:28:38 GMT 1
hobbycity.com has some of the cheapest prices for brushless motors, speed controls and battery. here is the combo i threw together real quick for an example which included:
2100mah lipo
lipo charger/balancer
motor
speed control
4 servos
a simple 6 channel tx/rx set
total with shipping $181.41 us
i dont know how bad they will kill you on taxes and exchange (shouldn't be too bad the us dollar sucks) but that gives you an idea what it would cost to get you in the air with a brushless lipo setup. if you wanted more batteries they are $22 a peice, but the weight with just one order made the shipping jump $25.
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Post by bucknut on Jan 13, 2009 15:30:31 GMT 1
Ok, I realize this thread is a bit ancient, but I have a question about the brushless setup you purchased from Hobbycity.com? I bought my 25Amp brushed ESC and two 3S Lipos from them and they are riduculously cheap....love it. But what motor and ESC specifically did you purchase and how are they today. I need to upgrade because I keep burning up my stock 480 with the lipos  |
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Post by flydiver on Jan 13, 2009 18:10:24 GMT 1
What prop are you using? The stock will handle 3S but only if you prop down. Stock prop tends to burn it up. You should also do a low voltage break in with a new motor to set the brushes. The hardest thing on a new motor is full throttle use on a 3S lipo. Try this-sounds weird, but works: www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5788&page=2If you do go brushless I'd avoid the cheapy TowerPros. They work but very soon you'll tire of the bent shafts. |
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Post by bucknut on Jan 14, 2009 15:25:03 GMT 1
Thanks for your help on this and the thread you provided is going to be something I try to do today on the "old" motor. It really sounds like it's missing....so if it truly is done, then no harm. I'll also do the same to the new motor, but I'll wait to see if it fixes the old one  As for the prop I'm using, it's a GWS 1060 HD. From the threads I've read that was the recommended prop for 3S lipos. I hope thats the case because I just purchased like 9 of them in bulk and have already drilled the whole to fit my 3mm shaft. Speaking of which, I needed a spacer with the GWS props so I just used the prop securing nut and threaded it all the way down shaft so it's flush with the base nut. Then I dug into my old supply of nuts and screws from my RC truck days and found a nice 3mm nylon threaded locknut to secure the prop with. It also came with a 3mm tool that makes it super easy to change props when I, uh, need to.....which is often.....LOL!!! John |
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Post by flydiver on Jan 14, 2009 16:56:39 GMT 1
I had a used motor that was missing. Newbie at the time I figured it to be 'GLITCHING!!!'
Everything is glitching to newbies. Did LOTS of reading, checked everything, no luck. On a whim I did the water break-in > fixed it. I suspect now looking back that the brushes were arcing a lot and creating radio interference (so it was glitching after all).
That's the right prop. Hope you AREN'T using 3mm nuts on the stock system, it's 4mm. Make SURE nothing is bent/binding in the gearbox. If you need to change props a lot then you are being pretty hard on the power package and it may need attention.
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Post by bucknut on Jan 14, 2009 18:55:44 GMT 1
My mistake....I am using a 4mm locking nut. It fits perfectly and threads great. I will definitely not lose a prop....well not from a loose nut anyway.
I just finished water break in on the old motor. I took two D batteries and duct taped them together in the middle. Ran a positive 14g wire from + side and the same from - side. Filled sink with tap water, connected it up and let er' sink. I ran it for about 20 minutes. You could see all kinds of small debris coming off of the motor after about 5 minutes. I dried it off using a hair dryer....shook the motor and a few more drops came out....hit again with the hairdryer. Then I lubed up both ends and stuck in back in gearbox. I put a prop on and held the plane between ankles and let it rev. No smoke like before.....no burnt smell...and the motor sounded normal. Soooooooooo.....I'm heading out this afternoon to fly. Its a calm, sunny day here in Charlotte and about 47 out...so not too bad. We shall see....
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